UNIVERSITY  FARM 


TJ/Z35' 

G-Z 


SAW  FILING 

AND 

Management  of  Saws 

A    PRACTICAL    TREATISE    ON 

Filing,  Gumming,  Swaging,  Hammering  and  Brazing 
Band  Saws.  Speed,  Power  and  Work  to  Operate 
Circular  Saws,  etc.  "With  Full  Directions  for  Filing, 
Setting,  Polishing,  Joining,  Straightening  and  Polish- 
ing Hand,  Butchers',  Band  and  Circular  Saws.  Files 
to  Use,  Useful  Hints  for  Repairing  and  Caring  for 
Saws.  Coiling  and  Brazing  Band  Saws,  Home- 
Made  Sets  and  Clamps,  Emergency  Repairs,  etc. 

Complete  tables  of  proper  shape,  pitch  and  set  of  saw  teeth  as 
well  as  sizes  and  number  of  teeth  of  various  saws  are  included. 

By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW,  M.E. 


Third  Edition.     Revised  and  Enlarged. 
Fully  Illustrated  with  over  100  Engravings. 


New    York 

THE  NORMAN  W.  HENLEY  PUBLISHING  CO. 

132    Nasgau    Street 
1912 


Copyright    1882 
By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW,  M.E. 

Copyright    1901    and    1912 

By  NORMAN  W.   HENLEY   PUBLISHING  COMPANY 


Macgowan  &  Slipper 

Printer* 

30  Beekman  Street 
New  York  City 


I 


This  book  is  designed  as  a  practical  aid  to  those 
who  use  saws  for  any  purpose.  While,  as  its  title 
implies,  it  treats  principally  of  saw-filing,  it  also 
goes  into  the  questions  of  gumming,  spring-setting, 
and  swaging.  The  author  has  tried  to  bring  it 
up  to  present  successful  usage,  and  will  be  glad 
to  receive  from  practical  sawyers  and  others  for 
future  editions,  questions,  suggestions,  and  infor- 
mation bearing  on  the  subject. 

Preface  to  the  Third  Edition 

In  order  to  bring  this  work  strictly  up-to-date 
and  include  the  latest  ideas  and  developments  of 
modern  methods,  this  volume  has  been  revised, 
re-edited  and  considerable  new  material  added. 

During  many  years'  experience  in  using  saws  of 
nearly  every  kind,  size  and  make,  and  frequently 
in  out-of-the-way  localities,  many  useful  and  handy 
ideas  have  been  developed  by  the  Editor,  and  in 
order  that  these  original  "wrinkles"  may  prove  of 
use  or  benefit  to  others,  they  have  been  embodied 
in  the  new  material  added  to  this  volume. 

THE  AUTHOR. 
November,  1912. 


SAW  FILING 

AND 

Management  of  Saws 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

LIBRARY 

BRANCH  OF  THE 
COLLEGE  OF  AGRICQLTURfi 


INTRODUCTION. 


THERE  is  no  more  sense  in  using  a  dull  saw 
than  in  shaving  with  a  dull  razor. 

It  is  a  great  deal  easier  to  keep  a  saw  sharp 
by  frequent  light  file-touches,  than  to  let  it  get 
so  dull  as  to  need  a  long-continued  filing  down, 
after  it  gets  so  dulled  as  to  refuse  to  work. 

The  saving  in  power,  by  using  a  sharp  saw, 
is  very  great.  It  has  never  yet  been  measured 
in  power-saws,  and  is  hardly  measurable  in 
hand-saws  ;  but  it  is  without  doubt  consider- 
able. 

By  using  sharp  saws,  thinner  blades  may  be 
used  than  where  the  teeth  are  dull ;  because 
the  duller  the  saw  the  more  power  required  to 
drive  it  through  the  wood,  and  the  more  strain 
on  each  tooth  separately,  and  on  the  blade  as  a 
whole. 

For  the  same  reason,  longer  teeth  may  be 
used  where  they  are  sharp,  than  where  they 
are  dull. 

The  advantage  of  using  sharp  teeth  is  great- 
est in  those  saws  in  which  the  strain  of  cutting 
tends  to  deform  the  blade — as  in  all  "  push- 
cut  "  straight  saws  and  in  circulars. 


SAW-FILING. 


Classification  of  Saws. — There  are  four 
general  classes  of  saws — reciprocating,  circular, 
band,  and  cylinder  ;  *  and  four  classes  of  teeth 
— the  V  or  cross-cut,  the  ^^*\  or  ripping 
tooth,  the  M  or  W,  and  the  hook ;  with  their 
variations  and  combinations. 

Each  of  these  requires  special  treatment,  as 
distinguished  from  the  others,  and  particular 
adaptation  to  conditions  of  saw,  speed,  thick- 
ness, and  character  of  material  and  work,  etc. 

Saws  for  use  in  fibrous  materials,  such  as 
wood,  act  in  two  ways — for  ripping,  or  cutting 
with  the  grain,  and  for  cross-cutting  or  divid- 
ing at  right  angles  (or  thereabouts)  to  the 
fiber. 

In  ripping  fibrous  material,  each  fiber  is 
severed  by  each  tooth  only  once  at  a  stroke,  but 
many  times  in  successive  strokes  ;  while  in 
cross-cutting,  each  fiber  is  cut  off  in  two  places 
at  a  stroke,  and  never  again  cut  off  in  that 
line. 

*For  fuller  classification  of  saw-blades,  see  "Grim- 
shaw  on  Saws,"  page  12. 

9 


10  SAW-FILING. 

Rip-Saws. — The  rip-saw,  having  for  its  duty 
severing  each  fiber  once  at  a  time  in  its  length, 
is  generally  given  acute  teeth,  well  raked,  and 
as  it  can  act  more  like  a  mortising  chisel  than 
can  the  cross-cut,  it  is  given  more  gullet,  be- 
cause it  will  take  greater  feed  per  tooth. 

The  hand  rip-saw  is  longer  and  stouter  than 
the  hand  cross-cut,  being  from  28"  to  30"  long 
as  against  26"  for  the  cross-cut,  and  having  only 
3  to  5  teeth  to  the  inch  through  the  greater 
part  of  its  length,  as  against  5  to  12.* 

The  sash-saw  for  ripping,  f  (mill-saw)  is 
about  the  most  abused  tool  that  man  uses,  get- 
ting the  worst  shaped  teeth,  and  being  allowed 
to  get  the  dullest,  because  the  operator  does  not 
feel  that  it  runs  hard  ;  nor  does  he  see  if  it 
is  wrongly  toothed,  as  the  mulay,  the  circular, 
or  the  band  would  clearly  show  by  running 
crooked.  The  teeth  have  seldom  enough 
"  rake "  or  front  pitch,  nor  enough  gullet ; 
they  are,  too,  frequently  given  excessive  and 
irregular  set. 

The  mulay  rip-saw  J  gets  better  care  than  the 
sash.  The  teeth  are  about  the  same. 

*  For  various  forms  and  styles  of  hand-saws  and 
handles  therefor,  see  "  Grim shaw  on  Saws,"  pages  18, 
30,  33  to  35. 

f  See  same  work,  pages  21  to  23  and  33. 

j  See  same  work,  page  20. 


SAW-FILING.  11 

The  circular  rip-saw  responds  better  than 
any  other  to  skill  in  toothing  and  mounting, 
and  to  ease  in  running.  Its  teeth  should  be 
widely  spaced  and  very  hooking,  with  plenty  of 
gullet  to  take  out  the  chips  (not  dust)  which 
it  should  make. 

The  band-saw  *  is  never  used  for  cross-cut- 
ting, except  when  cutting  scroll-work,  and  may 
generally  be  treated  as  a  rip-saw.  It  requires 
special  regularity  in  shape  and  set  of  teeth  to 
prevent  it  from  breaking  and  from  running  into 
the  work. 

The  Cross-Cut  Saw  f  has  for  its  r'uty 
severing  each  fiber  crosswise  ;  and  in  order  to 
prevent  pinching  or  binding,  it  divides  each  fiber 
in  two  places  at  once,  leaving  a  path  or 
"kerf"  for  the  blade  to  run  in  and  the  ma- 
terial to  fall  out  through. 

If  you  undertook  to  divide  a  board  in  two, 
crosswise,  by  successive  knife-cuts,  you  would 
soon  find  the  necessity  for  having  a  groove  at 
least  as  wide  as  the  thickness  of  the  blade  ;  and 
this  could  be  accomplished  only  by  severing 
each  fiber  twice ;  making  two  parallel  cuts 

*  "  Grimshaw  on  Saws,"  page  83. 

f  For  various  styles  of  cross-cuts  saws  and  of  handles 
therefor,  see  same  work,  pages  37  to  48  of  2d  edi- 
tion. 


12  SAW-FILING. 

between  which  the  material  was  removed   to 

leave  the  "kerf." 

The  action  of  the  cross-cut  saw  is  analogous 

— it  makes  two  parallel  sawings,  and  removes 

the  short  lengths  between  them. 

Ordinarily,  every  other  tooth  is  beveled  to 

right  and  to  left,  so  as  to  help  make  the  right 

hand  or  the  left  hand  score.     The  front  view 

of  a  rightly  filed  straight  cross-cut,  with  teeth 

beveled  to  right  and  left  alternately,  should  be 
as  in  Fig.  1,  and  the  filing  should  be 
so  accurate  that  a  needle  could  be  slid 
along  the  groove  left  between  or 
formed  by  the  beveled  tooth  edges. 
But  instead  of  making  a  kerf  having 
a  bottom  of  ridged  section,  the  re- 
sult is  the  crumbling  out  of  the  ma- 
terial as  fast  as  the  scoring  progresses, 
and  the  kerf  is  left  square  bottomed. 
It  is  the  outside  edge  of  each  tooth 

that  does  the  cutting. 

The  Elements  of  a  Saw  Tooth  *  are  its 

face,  point,  back,  and  gullet. 

Teeth  vary   in    length,  thickness,   spacing, 

rake,  amount  and  kind  of    set,  fleam,  outline 

and  direction,  and  in  depth  and  outline  of  throat 

or  "gullet." 

*  See  "  Griiuskaw  on  Saws,"  pages  12  to  20. 


SA  \\~-FlLIlsrG. 


13 


They  have  for  offices  cutting,  cleaning,  and 
planing. 

They  are  either  solid  (in  one  piece  with  the 
plate  of  the  saw),  or  in- 
serted. 

The  cutting  edge  of  a 
saw  may  have  all  teeth  of 
a  kind,  or  several  kinds  in 
regular  order. 

Teeth  may  be  simple  or 
compound.* 

The  gullet  may  be  angu- 
lar, notched,  or  rounded. 

Whatever  be  the  style  of 
saw  or  of  tooth,  it  is  im- 
perative that  all  teeth  of  a 
kind  shall  be  of  uniform 
outline  and  dimensions — 
except  in  those  cases  (as 
"increment  toothed 
saws ")  where  the  teeth 
purposely  vary  in  size  in 
regular  progression,  f 

*  Various  styles  of  compound  and  special  teeth  are 
shown  and  described  in  the  author's  work  on  Saws,  pages 
12  to  20,  28,  38  to  48,  57  to  61,  64,  71,  73  to  81,  87,  109 
to  119,  128,  138,  157,  170  to  177,  and  204. 

f  Grirashaw  on  Saws,  pages  20  to  23,  28,  34,  and  59. 


14 


SAW-FILING. 


Tooth  Length. — The  softer  the  material 

the  greater 
the  length  o  f 
tooth  among 
materials  of  the 
same  general 
class.  Long 
teeth  give  plenty 
of  clearance  for 
sawdust ;  hence 
are  good  for  soft, 
wet,  or  fibrous 
woods. 

The  length  of 
cleaner  teeth 
may  be  r  e  g  u  - 
lated  by  a  gauge 
such  as  that 
shown  in  Fig.  58 

When  a  cross- 
cut needs  more 
cleaners,  they 
may  be  made  by 
filing  down  cut- 
ting teeth,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  3, 
taking  care  to 
bring  them  below  the  cutting  line. 


SAW-FILING. 


15 


The  thinner  and  longer  the  teeth,  the  greater 
the  importance  of  having  even,  and  not  exces- 
sive, set ;  because  a  thick  or  a  short  tooth  will, 
more  readily  than  a  thin  or  along  one,  with- 
stand a  tendency  to  spring  into  the  cut. 

The  difficulty  of  springing  into  the  cut  is 
met  with  only  in  sawing  fibrous  (although  per- 
haps we  may  add  granular)  materials.  It  is 
greater  with  teeth  having  excessive  rake  and 
"  fleam,"  (or  side  angle)  than  with  those  of 
straight  pitch,  filed  square  across. 

Tooth  Space. — The  following  table  gives 
lengths,  sizes,  and  spaces  of  teeth  of  hand-saws  : 


NAME. 

LENGTH. 

GAUGE. 

POINTS  TO  INCH. 

(Hand  

26" 

19 

5  to  12 

11     *>P  
gS  1  Panel.  .  .. 

P.-^       Compass.*  . 
£g    [Keyhole.*.. 

28"  to  30" 

14"  to  24" 
10"  to  20" 
7"  to  9" 

18 

22  to  20 
16 
12 

j  Heel,    3  to  5 
1  Point,  6  to  8 
8  to  12 

?     r 

05  -d    ! 
•2S    \  Tenon  
«  :  «    1  Miter  

«£ 

6"  to  18" 
20"  to  30" 

22  to  20 
20  to  19 

11  to  15 
10  to  11 

•ucq 
cc        I 

Hand  rip-saws  may  have  coarser  teeth  at  the 
heel  than  at  the  point,  so  that  fine  teeth  com- 
mence and  coarse  ones  finish  the  cut. 


*  Narrow  blades  for  curve-sawing. 


16 

For  soft  wood,  band-saws  sliould  hare  a 
tooth-space  one-half  the  blade  Avidth,  and  depth 
one-filth.  For  hard  wood,  space  one-third,  and 
depth  one-fifth. 


Fig.  4. 

Angle  and  Rake. — The  generic  angle  of 
saw-teeth  is  60°.  Teeth  of  any  other  angle  can- 
not be  filed  well  without  a  special  file,  as  can 
those  shown  in  Figs.  4,  5,  in  which,  although 


Fig.  5. 

the  rake  is  different,  the  angle  is  the  same. 

The  rake  of  a  rip-saw  is  in  front ;  that  of  a 
cross-cut  at  the  side. 


SAW-FILING. 


17 


Rip-saws  take  more  inclination  than  cross- 
cuts. 

Teeth  with  great  front  rake  tend  to  spring  in, 
especially  in  hard  wood.* 

More  rake  can  be  put  on  a  circular  than  on  a 
rectilinear  saw,  partly  because  it  runs  faster, 
hence  can  stand  it. 

The  harder  the  wood  the  less  rake  there 
should  be. 

For  soft  wood,  teeth  as  at  A,  Fig.   6,  are 


good  ;  for  hard  and  knotty  stuif,  B  (60°  equally 
pitched  front  and  back).  For  varied  work  C 
(40°  equally  divided). 

The  teeth  shown  in  Fig.  7  have  excessive 
front  rake,  and,  while  keen  cutting,  tend  to  dig 
in.  Fig.  8  shows  various  degrees  of  rake,  and 
the  arrows  show  the  direction  of  the  strain 
put  upon  them  by  the  work.  In  Fig.  9,  the 
points  of  the  teeth  have  considerable  rake  ;  but 

*  See  "  Saws,"  pages  14  to  16. 


18 


SAW-FILING. 


the  main  portions  are  so  formed  as  to  resist  the 
strain  of  work. 

Side  Angle  or  Fleam. — Referring  to  Figs. 


Fig.  7.— Great  Front  Rake. 

10  to  44  : — for  metal  saws,  the  file  is  held  90°  in 
botli  vertical  and  horizontal  angles ;  for  hard 


Fig.  8.— Various  Degrees  of  Rake. 

woods,  90°  to  80°  horizontally  ;  for  soft  woods, 
70°  to  60°  and  less  horizontally ;  35°  to  30* 
vertically. 


SAW-FILING. 


19 


Shingle  saws  should  be  filed  square  across. 

Fleam  or  side  angle  is  better  for  soft  woods 
and  those  free  from  knots  than  for  hemlock  or 
spruce. 

Fig.  10  shows,  greatly  magnified,  the  teeth 
of  a  hand  rip-saw  which  has  both  bent-set,  and 
fleam  or  side  angle.  The  arrows  show  the 


A  A  A  A 

Fig.  9.— Strong  Teeth,  with  very  Raking  Points. 

direction  in  which  the  strain  of  work  comes 
upon  the  teeth  set  and  fleamed  to  the  right 
side,  and  those  bent  and  fieamed  to  the  left. 
As  this  is  at  right  angles  to  the  cutting  edge  of 
the  tooth,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  greater  the 
fleam  the  greater  the  tendency  to  spring  in  to 
the  work  ;  and  as  the  tendency  to  spring  in  is 
also  increased  by  bent  set,  the  two  should  not 
be  given  together. 

Choice  of  Teeth. — With  the  choice  of  teeth 


20  SAW- FILING. 

for  special  purposes,  this  work  will  have  little 
to  do  ;  this  matter  being  treated  in  special  de- 
tail in  the  author's  work  on  Saws.* 

Circular-saw  teeth  are  generally  more  distant 
and  more  inclined,  and  have  more  set,  than  rec- 
tilinear. 

Pruning-saws  may  have  half -moon  or  briar 
teeth. 

The  more  valuable   the   material    and    the 


Fig.  10. — Spring  Set  and  Side  Angle. 

greater  the  cost  of  power,  the  thinner  the 
teeth  and  the  less  the  set  should  be  ;  although 
in  general  the  harder  the  material,  the  thicker 
the  teeth,  to  stand  the  greater  strain. 

The   softer  the   material,   the   more  depth, 

" fleam,"  "  hook,"  and  "  rake,"  may  be  given. 

The  more  fibrous  and  porous  the  material, 

*  See  pages  12,  18,  65,  234,  of  3d  edition  of  that  work. 


SAW-FILING. 


21 


*:— 0 


the  greater  may  be  the  spacing,  and  the  greater 
the  necessity  of  deep  throat  or  gullet. 

Gumming  may  be  done  with  punches,  rotat- 
ing steel  cutters,  or     e 
emery-wheels. 

In'  Fig.  11,  the 
dotted  line  B  shows 
where  the  point  first 
wears  ;  CCC,  how  it 
should  be  filed  back  ; 
but  too  often,  on  ac- 
count of  the  long  sur- 
face, and  the  sharp 

Corner  at    /,  the    fil-  Fig.  ll. -Tooth  Wear  and  Gumming. 

ing  is  done  on  the  top.  Filing  back  in  the  line 
CCC,  the   diameter  is  diminished  only  to  Fy 
while   from  the  top  you 
"*S.  work  it  down  to  D. 

*\^X  In  Fig.   12,    the   same 

XX  tooth   is  shown,  gummed 

l\w       by  a  machine,  and  leaving 

J      \     but    little    underfil- 

^/_J     ing- 
Fig.  i&— Machine  Gumming.      The  higher  the  speed, 

the   greater  necessity  for  rounding  the   gul- 
let. 

Band-saws  particularly  require  rounded  gul- 
lets. 


2  SAW-FILING. 

In  Fig.  13,  tooth  A  is  shown  to  need  gullet- 
ing  ;  tooth  B  is  all  right. 

Fig.  15  shows  a  very  bad 
job  of  gumming. 

Reversible      Blade 
Gummer.  —  A    gummer 
for    circulars,    with     the 
blades  reversible   and  de- 
tachable, as  shown  in  Fig. 
f  14,*    has    the    advantage 
\  that   both    cutting    edges 
5  of     the   blades     may    be 
^  sharpened   at    once,    and 
|  when  one  edge  is   dulled 
o  the  other  may  be  turned  ; 
s  besides  which   the    gum- 
Jj  mer  cuts   practically   the 
Jj  same  sized  circle  all  the 
dj  time. 

^  Mixter's  Rotary 
Gummer.  —  The  same 
firm  makes  Mixter's  gum- 
ming machine,  to  use 
these  cutters.  (See  Fig. 
16.) 

Kind  of  Set.— Set  is  of 
two  kinds — "  spring  "  or 
*R.  L.  Orr  &  Co.,  Pittsburg, 


SAW-FILIITG. 


24  SAW-FILING. 

"bent"  set,  and  "swaged"  or  "spread" 
set. 

Bent  set  teeth  cut  upon  only  one  side ;  spread 
set  teeth  cut  upon  both  sides,  unless  they  are 
either  bent  or  "  sheared"  as  well  as  swaged. 

Each  method  of  setting  has  its  advantages 
and  disadvantages,  according  to  the  conditions. 

Of  course,  bent  set  teeth  have  more  of  this 


Fig.  15.— Very  Bad  Gumming. 

tendency  than  swaged  ones,  and  the  great  ci  the 
bend,  the  more  tendency  to  spring  in. 

A  swaged  tooth,  being  supported  on  both 
sides,  is  less  subject  to  side  strains  than  one 
which  is  bent  for  set. 

Bending  for  Set  may  be  done  by  blows  or  by 
leverage — the  latter  including  bending  by  cams. 
Either  may  be  accomplished  by  a  machine  or  by 
simple  hand  tools. 


SAW-FILING. 


26  SAW-FILING. 

To  set  by  blows,  without  a  machine,  the 
blade  must  be  gripped  close  to  the  ends  of  the 
teeth,  and  the  blow  struck  quickly  with  a  light 
hammer — the  blows  being  as  uniform  in  force 
as  possible,  in  order  to  bend  all  teeth  alike. 

Avoid  either  too  short  or  too  long  set ;  the 
former  causing  too  sharp  bending  of  the  tooth 
near  the  point,  and  the  latter  (the  less  evil  of 
the  two)  requiring  more  force  to  effect. 

Where  bent  set  is  effected  by  hammer  blows, 
it  is  by  many  thought  best  to  slightly  overset, 
and  then  lightly  correct  the  excess  by  gentle 
taps,  in  the  case  of  large  saws,  noting  the 
exact  and  proper  amount  of  projection  by 
means  of  a  simple  sheet-steel  set-gauge. 

For  large  teeth,  there  may  be  used  special 
set  levers,  having  two  set  screws — one  to 
accommodate  the  instrument  to  various  thick- 
nesses of  saw  plate,  and  the  other  to  regu- 
late, as  a  stop,  the  amount  of  bending. 

Small  teeth  may  readily  be  bent  for  set  by 
a  simple  notch  in  the  end  of  a  file. 

Cam  sets  produce  a  bent  set  that  is  neces- 
sarily the  same  for  all  the  teeth  of  each 
saw. 

Figs.  19  and  20  show  cam  sets  for  circular 
and  band  saws,  devised  by  C.  E,  Grandy,  </ 
South  Barton,  Vt. 


SAW-FILING. 


Spread  Set  may  be  ef- 
fected by  direct  hammer 
blows  on  the  teeth,  or  by 
"crotch  punches"  or  dies 
applied  to  the  tooth  ends 
and  struck  by  a  hammer. 

Large  mill-saw  teeth  may 
be  upset  by  blows  of  a  flat- 
faced  hammer,  using  the 
firmly-held  butt  of  an  axe 
as  an  anvil  or  counter ; 
but  this  method  is  crude, 
and  at  best  unsatisfactory. 
The  operation  may  be 
shortened  and  facilitated, 
and  the  work  made  more 
perfect  and  uniform,  by 
having  a  die  of  suitable 
outline  and  faces,  into 
which  the  metal  of  the- 
tooth-point  is  spread  by 
smart  hammer  blows  on 
the  instrument. 

Usually,  these  upsets 
have  two  notches,  one 
merely  to  spread  the  tooth- 
point,  and  the  other  to  limit 


28 


SAW-FILING. 


its  side  dimensions  and  give  the  cutting  edge, 
when  desired,  a  slightly  concave 
form. 

There   being   some    difficulty  in 
properly  hardening   the    angles  of 
single-piece  crotch  punches,    so  as 
to   preserve    the    original    straight 
form,*   they   are   now  best    made 
^.  with  a  saw-cut  in  the  angle,  the 
&  metal  being  kept  to  size  and  form 
i  by  means  of  a  strong  steel  band, 
g  which  drives  the  walls  of  the  crotch 
i  hard  together,  and  gives  a  straight 
•$  line,  which  may  be  renewed  when 
£  worn  by  taking  off  the  band,  dress- 
o  ing  out  the  cut,  and  driving  the 
J5  walls  together  again. 
.bb      In  swaging  or  upsetting  teeth, 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  make 
the    corners     too     sharp.       There 
should  be   enough   metal  back   of 
them  to  hold  them  out  firm  with- 
out breaking  off  ;    and  this  in  no 
wise  affects  the   sharpness   of   the 
front  of  the  tooth,    which  is   the 
chisel-edge   that    does    the    work, 

*  The  hardening  fluid  does  not  always  reach  into  the 
angle,  where  the  greatest  hardness  is  required. 


SAW-FILING. 


and  which  may  be  straight,  convex  or  concave, 
at  the  option  of  the  sawyer. 

The  ideal  swaged  tooth,  looking  only  at  the 
question    of    strength   of    corners,    would   be 


Fig.  19.— Cam  Set  for  Circular?. 

somewhat  like  Fig.  21 ;  but  as  it  would  be 
impossible  to  swage  cold -tempered  steel  by 
hand  into  such  an  outline,  the  form  shown 
in  Fig.  22,  which  is  a  possible  one,  should  be 


30 


SAW-FILING. 


aimed  at.  The  form  shown  in  Fig.  23  has 
extremely  weak  corners,  and  if  one  of  them 
crumbles  off,  the  other  gets  all  the  work,  and 
is  liable  to  go  too.  If  both  go,  then  the  tooth 


'.  '20.— -Cam  Set  for  Hands. 

behind  has  an  extra  load  thrown  upon  it,  and 
so  on.  The  finer  the  feed,  the  greater  the 
proportion  of  work  thrown  on  the  tooth  cor- 
ners, as  compared  with  the  front  face.  AVitli 
very  coarse  feed,  the  action  of  the  tooth  is 


SAW-FILING. 


31 


more  like  tha^  z>f  a  mortising  chisel,  getting  a 
full  cut  all  across  its  face;  so  that  if  the 
corners  were  gone,  the  chisel  would  tear 
through  anyhow,  leaving  to  the  next  tooth 
behind  the  duty  of  trimming  square  the  ragged 
edges  of  the  cut. 

If  it  were  practicable  to  swage  and  file  teeth 
into  such  a  shape 
as  is  indicated  in 
Fig.  24,  in  which 
there  is  a  cutting 
edge  at  each  side 
as  well  as  in  front, 
the  greatest  possi- 
ble smoothness  of 
ut  would  be  at- 

ined. 

Such    a   tooth 

ould  have  a  strong 

rner,    well   sup-  Figs.  21,  22,  23. 

ported  from  behind,  and  from  this  there 
might  be  a  taper,  as  in  Fig.  21,  or  else  the 
plate  behind  might  be  of  even  thickness,  with 
a  slight  sweep  as  a  strengthening  curve. 

The  Gridley  tooth  has  both  spring  and 
spread  set  and  "shear."  (See  Fig.  25.) 

Various  devices  for  spreading  and  bending 
teeth  are  shown  in  "  Saws,"  pages  127,  180, 
258,  &c. 


32  SAW-FILING. 

In  swaging,  the  "upset"  tool  should  be  so 
held  as  to  deliver  the  blow  in  a  line  with  the 
face  of  the  tooth.  If  inclined,  so  that  the 
blow  comes  in  the  direction  of  the  back  of  the 
tooth,  or  further  out,  there  is  danger  of  a  crack 
starting  in  the  gullet,  especially  in  frosty 
weather. 


.  2G.— Leslie  Swage. 

Fig.  2G  shows  the  Leslie  "solid  swage," 
made  by  R.  L.  Orr,  of  Pittsburg,  and  which  is 
claimed  to  be  able  to  equalize  the  Ings  of  such 
a  tooth  as  Fig.  23,  by  drawing  the  metal  over 
to  the  desired  side.  This  swage  has  what  is 
called  a  "  three-fold  convex  surface,"  and  is 
provided  with  guides  for  regulating  its  exjict 
position  on  the  saAV,  and  hence  the  shape  of 
the  point  which  it  gives  the  tooth.  The 
"three-fold  convex"  surface  is  formed  by  the 


SAW-FILING. 


33 


intersection  of  two  right  cylinders,  its  property 
being  to  spread  the  metal  of  the  tooth 
in  both  directions  from  the  center, 
tit  right  angles  from  the  body  of  the 
saw,  leaving  the  tooth  curved  on  the 
face,  hack,  and  edge.  A  light  file  touch 
is  then  used  to  bring  the  edge  straight 
if  desired. 

In  drawing  over  a  tooth  to  change 
the  lead  of  a  saw,  with  this  swage,  the 
screws  provided  for  the  purpose  are 
set  out  so  as  to  cant  the  swage  on  the 
saw,  with  the  result  of  making  the 
hlow  come  on  one  side  of  the  tooth,  and  crowd 
the  metal  towards  the  other. 

Amount  of  Set. — Circular  saws  re- 
]uire  more  set  than  rectilinear,  because 
they  run  faster  and  are  apt  to  wab- 
ble. 

Ice-saws  should  have  excessive  set,  to 
prevent  clogging. 

There  should  be  very  little  set  to 
veneer  saws,  by  reason  of  the  great  cost 
of  the  material. 

The  more  gummy  the  material,  the 
greater  the  need  of  "  set "  or  side 
clearance. 

Small,  narrow  blades   of  jig-saws  should  be 


34 


SAW-FILING. 


eased  off  with  the  file,  a  gauge  or  so  in  thick- 
ness, if  not  already  made  so. 

Band  and  jig  saws  require  more  set  for  short 
curves  than  for  those  of  long  radius. 

A  tapered  jig-saw  blade  is  shown  in  Fig.  27. 
Such  a  blade  needs  neither  spread  nor  spring 
set  to  its  teeth,  but  will  keep  cool  in  hard 


Fig.  28.— Forms  of  Circular  Saw  Teeth. 

wood,    and    cut   short    curves   without    bind 

ing- 
Leading  in  or  out  of  the  log  is  very  often 

caused   l>y  giving  more  fleam  or  more  set  on 

one  side  than  on  the  oilier. 
Gullet,  or  Throat. — The  greater  the  feed, 

the  greater  the  gullet  needed. 

Spaulding's  rule  for  throat  room  of  circulars 

is   to    double  the  number  of  cubic  inches  of 


SAW-FILING.  35 

wood  removed  at  one  revolution,  and  divide 
by  the  number  of  teeth,  to  get  the  required 
number  of  square  inches  of  gullet  per  tooth. 

Insufficient  gullet,  throat  or  chamber,  causes 
the  saw  to  choke  and  heat,  the  rim  to  become 
too  large,  and  the  plate  to  run  "snaky." 

The  gullet  should  be  rounding,  as  in  Figs. 
29  and  30,  and  not  angular,  as  in  Figs.  31 
and  32,  in  which  case  cracks  may  start  ; 
and  in  any  instance  sharp  corners  are 
the  hardest  on  files.  V 

"  Top  Jointing  "  (also  called  |  | 
"rounding"  when  applied  to  circular 
saws)  is  bringing  the  points  of  all  the 
teeth  down  to  the  same  line,  so  that  no 
one  tooth  shall  project  lengthwise  be- 
yond  the  others,  and  thereby  receive 
undue  strain.  It  is  generally  performed 
with  a  flat  or  "mill"  file  ;  although  it 
may  be  done  by  a  plane  rubber  of  emery 
or  corundum,  or  a  whet-stone.  It  is  best 
effected  with  the  saw  mounted  in  a  special  but 
simple  jointing  frame,  or  its  equivalent.*  It 
is  a  very  necessary  operation. 

Side  Jointing  not  only  gives  each  tooth  its 
exact  share  of  work,  but  prevents  scratching 

*  "  Saws,"  page  248. 


36  SAW-FILING. 

of  the  lumber  caused  by  too  great  side  pro- 
jection of  a  tooth,  and  what  is  about  as  un- 
sightly, "ridging,"  caused  by  a  tooth  not 
cutting  out  to  full  kerf  width,  and  hence 
leaving  a  ridge  on  the  lumber ; 
although  ridging  is  often  largely 
effaced  by  the  action  of  the  fol- 
lowing teeth. 

"  Side  jointing"  is  a  corrective 
of  irregular  setting,  and  prevents 
»  undue  side-projection  of  any  tooth 
|  or  teeth  beyond   the  rest.     It  is 
^  more  effective  with  swaged  teeth 
|  than  with  those  bent  for  set. 
*      The  "side  file"  (Fig.  33)  may 
,  °*m  be  adjusted  by  the   set  screws  t<? 
£  any  set  desired. 

Choice  of  a  Saw. — A  hand- 
savr  must  be  springy  and  elastic, 
with  almost  a  "Toledo  blade" 
temper.  There  is  no  economy  in 
buying  a  soft  saw  ;  it  costs  more 
^  in  a  year  for  files  and  filing  than 

a  hard  one  dovs,  dulls  sooner  and  drives  harder, 
and  does  not  last  as  long. 

Frequency  of  Filing. — Saw  teeth  should 
bo  filed,  set,  and  jointed  frequently,  and 
gummed  at  regular  and  not  widely  distant 


SAW-FILING. 


37 


times.    The  keener  and  more  regular  the  teeth, 
the  cleaner  and  easier  they  j 

will  work. 

Hand  vs.  Machine  Fil- 
ing and  Setting. — Hand 
filing  generally  has  the  ad- 
vantage of  convenience  in 
time  and  place. 

Machine  filing  has  the 
advantage  of  greater  regu- 
larity, ease,  speed,  and 
cheapness  of  work. 

Hand  filing  may  be  ren- 
dered more  regular  by  the 
use  of  file-guides.* 

The  same  remarks  may 
be  made  concerning  the  rel- 
ative merits  and  demerits 
of  hand  and  machine  set- 
ting, as  in  reference  to  hand 
and  machine  filing,  f 

Fig.  34  is  an  adjustable 
filing  guide  for  circular  or 
straight  saws.  It  will  file 

*  See  "Grimshaw  on  Saws," 
second  edition,  page  123. 

fFor  various  machine  saw- 
sets,  see  same  work,  pages  120,  127,  181. 


38 


SAW-FILING. 


a  tooth  square  top  and  bottom,  or  bevel  point 
and  square  back,  or  square  point  and  bevel 
back  ;  and  will  file  either  from  right  to  left,  or 
the  reverse. 

Eig.  35  shows  a  filing  guide,  having  a  grad- 


Fig.  36.—  Amesbury's  Band-Saw  Filing  Machine. 

uated   circle  numbered  from  its  center   each 
way,  giving  bevels  for  each  side  of  the  saAv. 

Other  machines  for  this  purpose  are  shown 
in  the  larger  work  on  Saws. 


SAW- FILING. 


39 


Fig.  36  shows  an  automatic  band-saw  filing 
machine,*  which  employs  a  spiral  file  in  two 
sections — one  to  cut  the  faces  and  to  feed  the 
blade  on,  and  the  other  to  file  the  backs. 


Fig.  81.— Angular  Gullets. 


F\£.  32.— Angular  Gullet*. 


Filing  Clamps.  —  The  screeching  of  saw- 
filing  is  proverbial,  and  yet  unnecessary.  A 
saw  properly  clamped  and  rightly  filet  I  need 

*  Made  by  G.  W.  Aireslmry  &  Co.,  Philadelphia. 


40 


SAW-FILING. 


not  "  screech  "  under  the  operation.  The  blade 
must  be  firmly  held  close  to  the  bottoms  of 
teeth,  and  the  file  held  firmly  against  the  teeth. 


{.     Side  File. 


Knbber,    leather,    or   even     soil,    (hick    paste- 
board   be(  \veeii  the   blade  and   the  jaws   of  the 


SAW-FILING. 


41 


clamp  will  absorb  most  of  the  vibrations,  and 
render  the  operation  more  nearly  noiseless. 

If  a  saw  shake  and  jar  while  being  filed, 
it  will  strip  the  file  ;  hence  it  ought  to  be  kept 
close  down  to  the  edges  of  the  clamps. 


tf.  34.  -File  Guide. 

Fig.  37  shoAvs  a  convenient  form  of  saw- 
filing  clamp. 

Files. — The  files  used  are  triangular,  flat  or 
mill,  round  or  gnlleting,  and  special. 

There  are  many  sizes  of  saw-files  and  mnny 
grades  of  coarseness  of  cut.* 

*  These  are  more  fully  illustrated  than  the  limits  of 
this  hand-book  permit,  in  the  larger  work  on  Saws. 


SAW-FILIKG, 


Fig.  35.— Filing  Guide. 


SAW-FILING.  43 

Many  styles  of  special  teeth  are  best  sharp- 
ened with  files  of  special  section,  made  on 
purpose  for  them  ;  and  some  cannot  be  sharp- 
ened with  any  other  than  special  files. 

The  face  of  the  file  should  be  double  as  wide 
as  the  length  of  the  tooth-face.  (See  Figs.  4, 
5).  In  Fig.  38  the  file  is  somewhat  too 
narrow. 

A  saw  file  cannot  well  be  too  hard,  nor  too 
sharply  cut.  To  preserve  its  cutting  powers, 
it  should  not  be  so  held  and  used  as  to  strip 
the  teeth  against  the  edges  of  the  saw  tooth. 
It  should  not  be  thrown  down  carelessly,  nor 
knocked  about  among  other  files  or  tools.  The 
corners  are  particularly  liable  to  be  stripped  in 
the  angles  between  the  teeth. 

'•  Increment  cut  "  files,  or  those  in  which  the 
distance    between    the    teeth    increases  from 

3m t  to  heel,  are  claimed  to  work  cleaner  and 
easier    than   those    in   which    the   spacing    is 
egular. 

Hand-cut  files  are  claimed  to  work  better 
than  any  machine-cut,  except  the  "increment " 
toothed. 

In  some  cases  the  file  is  so  shaped  and  held  as 
to  sharpen  the  back  of  one  tooth  and  the  face 
of  the  one  behind  it.  This  frequently  oc- 
curs with  such  small  teeth  as  have  no  curved 


44 


SAW-FILING. 


outlines,  and  is  especially  handy  where  the 
angle  of  the  gullet  is  60°,  as  is  generally  the 
case  where  the  throat  is  sharp-cornered. 


g.  37.— Saw-Filing  Chimp. 


Saw  files  should  he  "float"  or  single  cut. 
The  ordinary  triangular  saw  file  is  double 


SAW-FILING. 


tapered — a  contour  not  to  be  recommended  on 

the  score  of  cither  clean  work  or  economy. 

Since,  however,  a  taper  saw  file  will  continue 
to  he  demanded,  it  is  well  that  it  he  offered  in 
the  best  possible  modification. 

One  important  improvement  is  the  forma- 
tion of  a  knoh  or  button  at  the  top,  affording 
firmer  hold  for  the  thumb  and  forefinger,  and 
not  making  them  sore  where  tiling  is  in- 
frequent. Double  taper  tiles  are  also 


Fi-.    5 

'double    ended"    or    "'reversible/'   and    these 
too  ure  sometimes  "knob-ended." 

Band-saw  tiles  must   have  rounded  angles  so 
<  to  insure  round  throats  to  the  teeth.      (See 
?ig.  3'.).) 

System. — Saw   filing,  to  be  effected  regu- 

irly,  neatly  and  rapidly,    and   with   minimum 

ear     of    files,     must     he     gone     about     in     a 

systematic  manner,  in  order  that  no  tooth  may 

he  omitted  nor  gone  over  twice. 


46 


SAW-FILING. 


For  instance  :  the  face  of  every 
other  tooth  may  be  gone  over  in  regu- 
lar succession  ;  then  either  the  backs 
of  those  teeth,  or  the  faces  of  the 
intermediates,  and  so  on. 

The  following  cuts  and  descriptions 
will  illustrate  systematic  filing  of 
various  types  of  hand  saws. 

Fig.  40  is  for  metal  frame  saws. 

Fig.  41  is  a  peg  tooth,  with  plenty 
of  fleam.  Mill  saws  and  M  teeth  are 
sharpened  about  the  same  as  this. 
File  sides  1,  5,  9  (the  left  of  al- 
termite  teeth),  at  horizontal  angle,  h; 
then  opposite  sides  of  same  teeth,  2, 
6,  10,  with  reverse  angle  li  . 

Then  take  the  other  teeth,  and  file 
from  the  other  side  of  the  blade,  12, 
8,  4  ;  then  11,  7,  3. 

In  Fig.  42,  the  file  cuts  a  front  and  a 
back  at  once.  "  Top  "  the  teeth,  then 
file  1,  5,  9,  on  alternate  teeth,  clear 
back  to  the  center  of  each  tooth  left 
by  topping.  Then  take  sides  2  and  3, 
(>  and  7,  10  and  11  of  the  notches,  and 
file  them  forward  to  meet  the  line  a. 
This  finishes  faces  3,  7,  11.  Then 
change  the  saw  end  for  end,  and  finish 
backs  4,  8,  12. 


SAW  -FILING. 


47 


Fig.    43   shows   a  pruning    saw    for    green 
wood,  ground  thin  at  the  back,  and  having  no 


set.     It  lias  great  amount  of  bevel,  and  cuts 
"sweetly." 


48  SAW- FILING. 

Fig.  44  is  done  with  a  pit  saw-file  smaller 


than  the  gullet.     First  make  gullets  3,  7,  11, 
very  obliquely  in  the  vertical  plane  ;  first  fil- 


SAW-FILING. 


49 


ing  the  face  of  one  tooth,  and  then  the  back  of 
the  other.    Then  file  ^ 

the   backs  of   teeth       s    VL. 

4,  8,   12,    with   flat 
side   of    file,    at   an 
angle  5°  to  40°  with 
the  edge,  and  80°  to 
60°  with  the  side  of 
the    blade    (the    5° 
and    80°    being    for 
the   hardest   woods, 
and  the  40"  and  (iO° 
for  the  softest). 

One  common  rule 
given  is  as  follows  : 
File  the  faces  or 
fronts  before  the 
backs.  Where  the 
teeth  are  to  be 
square,  file  in  regu- 
lar succession,  1,  2, 
3,4. 

Where  there  is 
"fleam,"  file  1,  3, 

5,  7  to  right  ;  2,  4, 
C,  8  to  left,  etc. 

File  the  fronts  of  all  teeth  set  from  you,  and 
the  backs  of  those  srt  towards  you. 


50 


SAW-FILING. 


Circular  Saw  Teeth  should  be  fled  en 
the  under  side. 

Hints.— The  first  six  or  eight  inches  at  the 
point  of  a  hand  rip-saw 
may  be  given  "cross- 
cut "  pitch,  with  which 
you  can  cut  through 
knots  without  changing 
saws. 

The  last  teeth  of 
cross-cuts  may  be 
rounded  at  the  points 
to  prevent  tearing  on 
entering  and  leaving. 

A  sheet-steel  gauge 
(Fig.  45)  will  show  if 
a  circular  saw  tooth  is 
exactly  to  shape. 

A  templet  for  making 
all  the  teeth  of  a  cir- 
cular saw  of  the  same 
outline,  distance  be- 
1  ween  points,  and  dis- 
tance from  the  saw 
center,  may  be  made  of 
savv  plate  or  sheet  xinc, 
and  used  on  a  radial  arm,  as  shown  in  Fig.  46, 
while  the  saw  is  on  the  arbor. 


S  AAV-  FILING.  51 

Where  a  tooth  is  only  slightly  broken  off,  it 


brought  up  by  a  crotch  swage,,  as  shown 
Figs.  48  and  49. 
A  small  U  gullet  in  the  angle  of  teeth,,  as  in 


SAW-FILING. 


Fig.  47. 


SAW-FILING. 


Fig.  20,  page  30,  tends  to  save  the  file  from 
stripping. 

Better  file  all  along  in  three  light  filings, 
than  do  the  whole  of  each 
edge  at  one  cut. 

In  sharpening  an  under- 
cut or  a  parallel  tooth, 
there  is  danger  lest  the 
original  shapes  and  sizes 
get  perverted,  as  in  Figs. 
51,  52. 

An  M  tooth  should  have 
slightly  flaring  sides,  and 
then  it  may  be  kept  in 
size  and  shape  easily  with 
a  special  file,  cutting  side 
and  gullet  at  one  operation. 
Figs.  47,  50,  53,  show 
the  manner  of  filing  a 
"  Great  American  "  cross- 
cut with  a  special  file. 

When  one  tooth  of  a 
circular  saw  is  too  short, 
it  may  be  brought  out  to 
line  by  using  the  swage  as 
a  lever  while  hammering 
upon  it.  (See  Figs.  48  and  49.) 

Referring  to  Fig.  54,  which  shows  five  differ- 


Fig.  50. 


SAW-FILING-. 


55 


ent  conditions  of  teeth  of  circular  rip-saw- 
that  shown  at  A 
has  nearly  all  the 
swaged  portion  bro- 
ken or  worn  off  one 
side.  This  can  be 
remedied  without 
swaging,  by  squar- 
ing and  filing  so 
that  both  sides  are 
alike.  Tooth  B  lias 
the  cutting  edge  al- 
most square,,  but 
the  corners  are  un- 
equal. In  this  case 
the  file  should  be 
MS  3d  to  make  both 

corners  alike,  as  at 

C,    and    then     the 

swage     will     bring 

out  the    points   as 

at     D,    condensing 

the  metal  well  into 

the  corners  ;  but  if 

the    wood    is    very 

hard,  such  an  out- 
line  as   either   side 

pf  E  is  preferable. 


SAW-FILING. 


In  removing  a  circular  saw  from  the  arbor, 
when  hot  at  the  eye,  it  should  not  be  leaned 


Fig.  53. 


up  against  any  tiling,  else  it  will  very  likely 
<>;rt    dished,     Px'foro   taking   a   saw  from    the 


SAW-FILIXG. 


57 


inandrel,  it  should  be  cooled  by  letting  it  run 
a  few  mi  nates,  out  of  the  cut.     (Sitnonds.) 


The  harder  the  emery  wheel  used  for  gulleting 

and  sharpening,  the  more  apt  it  is  to  glaze  a  saw. 

Glazing,  by  reason  of  use  of  too  hard  emery 

wheels,  is  apt  to  cause  checking  and  splitting 

of  the  t3eth  m  swaging. 

Styles  of  Circular  Saw  Teeth,— Refer* 

c 
^\\X- 

B 


Fig,  55, 


ring  to  Figs.  55,  56,  57,  we  find  the  teeth  A 


58  SAW-FILING. 

at  the  left  of  Fig.  55  raking  to  a  circle  rather 
more  than  half  the  saw  diameter  ;  and  the  next 
two  sets,  B,  C,  to  a  circle  f  the  saw  diameter. 
The  softer  the  wood,  the  more  rake  the  teeth 
may  have.  In  two  of  these  sets,  B,  C,  tfhe  back 
has  a  separate  rake  rendering  the  teeth  less 
acute  than  if  the  back  was  in  one  line. 

In  Fig.  56,  the  rake  of  the  left  hand  and 
middle  sets  is  to  a  circle  not  quite  half  the  saw 
diameter. 


Fig.  56. 

Calling  these  styles  A  to  G  inclusive,  as  let- 
tered in  the  illustrations,  Grandy  would  use 
class  E  for  ripping  hard  wood  in  the  winter, 
and  C  for  hard  wood  in  the  summer,  working 
G  in  the  summer  on  every  class  of  wood.  Styles 
B,  C,  and  F  would  be  used  for  harder  wood 
than  if  the  back  had.  no  rakes 


SAW-FILING, 


59 


Style  F  (better  with  a  rounder  gullet)  would 
be  used,  say  2  inches  long  for  soft  wood  and  1§ 
inches  long  for  hard  ;  in  the  first  case  getting  f 
pitch  and  in  the  second  |  pitch.  For  small  pow- 
er and  light  feed  a  shorter  tooth  is  used  than 
when  sufficiency  of  power  enables  heavier  feed. 

Styles  H  to  N  inclusive,  Fig  57,  are  nearly 
all,  except  M,  forms  of  ripping  teeth  but  little 

K 

L 


M 


Fig.  57. 

ised  in  soft  wood  ;  and  M  is  properly  a  cross- 
cutting  tooth.  L  is  a  shape  very  common  in 
England  and  France  ;  being  produced  entirely 
nth  a  mill-file.  M  " goes'5  quickly  in  frosty 
veatluT,  particularly  when  it  strikes  a  knot. 

SET. — Set  the  tooth  and  not  the  plate  of 
the  saw  (when  bending  for  set).  This  will  pre- 
vent the  distortion  and  springing  of  the  blade, 


£0  SAW-FILIXG. 

and  the  frequent  cracking  natural  in  fine  full- 
tempered  cast  steel  blades  when  carelessly  or 
wrongly  spring-set. 

For  glue-joints  it  is  best  to  use  a  saw  without 
set ;  and  a  good  workman  will  run  a  winter  saw 
with  little  or  none,  the  back  holding  the  blade 
stiff  and  square,  and  keeping  it  from  springing. 
In  this,  its  C3mparatively  short  length  assists. 

It  requires  a  first-clacs  workman  to  use  a 
hand-saw  without  set  ;  and,  conversely,  a  man 
who  can  drive  a  saw  surely  and  straight, 
without  twist  or  buckle,  tremble  or  varying 
pressure,  can  run  it  with  little  or  no  set, 
except  in  very  gummy  or  very  hard  wood. 

Spring  ys,  Spread  Set— The  C.  1ST.  Nelson 
Lumber  Co.,  Cloquet,  Minn.,  say  :  "  A  spring 
set  with  a  slightly  shearing  tooth  unquestiona- 
bly cuts  the  easiest,  but  as  it  is  only  the  corner 
of  the  tooth  that  cuts,  you  will  require  twice 
as  many  teeth  in  a  spring  set  as  you  will  in  a 
full  swaged  saw  ;  and  as  power  is  a  secondary 
consideration  in  a  saw-mill  where  fuel  costs 
nothing,  the  full  swage  is  generally  preferred 
as  being  easier  taken  care  of." 

We  must,  however,  take  particular  excep- 
tion to  the  statement  that  "power  is  a  second- 
ary consideration  in  a  saw-mill,  where  fuel  costs 
nothing." 


SAW-FILING.  Cl 

There  are  other  items  of  expense  in  pro- 
ducing power  ;  the  principal  onts  being  inter- 
est, wear  and  tear,  lubrication,  insurance,  fire- 
men's wages,  "  boiler  compound,"  etc.  So  that 
if  a  given  amount  of  work  can  be  done  with  200 
horse  power,  there  is  no  use  in  paying  for  these 
items  in  a  250  horse  "plant." 


In  order  to  make  a  cross-cut  fast-cutting,  it 
must  have  deep  teeth,  so  as  to  give  plenty  of 
throat  room  to  carry  out  the  sawdust. 


One  advantage  in  blunt  end  saw-files  is,  that 
their  sides  are  less  tapered  than  "  sharp-end- 
or," 

Cleaner  Gauge.— Fig.  58  shows  the  cleaner 
gauge  referred  to  on  page  14,  for  keeping  the 
cleaver  teeth  of  a  cross-cut  shorter  than  the 
cutters,  and  all  of  a  uniform  length. 

Gummers. — One  point  of  advantage  of  a 
rotating   steel-cutter  gummer  over  an   emery 
eel  is  chat,  whereas  an  inexperienced  hand 
ruin  a  saw  by  case-hardening  with  an  emery 
.eel,  such  cannot  be  done  with  a  steel-cutter, 
"  burr  gummer."     Most  of  the  emery  gum- 
rs  for  circulars  require  that  the  saw  shall  be 
n  off  its  arbor  to  be   gummed  ;  all  burr 
mcrs  work  with  the  saw  in  position. 


SAW-FILING. 


Crotch  Swages. — In  the  manufacture  rr 
crotch  swages,  it  is  found  that  the  tempering 
is  a  difficult  matter,  a  good  many  being  lost  in 
this  operation.  The  jaws 
have  to  be  tempered  very 
hard  ;  but  if  this  hard  tem- 
per run  back  too  far  there 
is  a  tendency  for  them  to 
split.  Just  around  the  notch 
they  must  be  very  hard,  and 
the  rest  must  be  soft  and 
tough. 

It  is  best  that  crotch 
swages  be  fitted  with  a  side 
guard  to  prevent  the  hand 
of  the  operator  being  injured 
by  the  swage  slipping  off  the 
tooth.  This  guide  may  be 
made  to  serve  also  as  an  at- 
tachment to  keep  the  swage 
central,  or  to  throw  it  over 
so  as  to  give  the  saw  more 
lead  on  one  side  than  on  the 
other. 

The    Simonds     Manufac- 
turing   Company    makes    a 
swage  that  is  claimed  io  act 
on  the  teeth  back  from  the  cutting  edge  as 


SAW -FILING.  63 

well  as  at  the  edge,  spreading  them  to  the  re- 
quired width  without  materially  reducing  their 
length.  This,  if  accomplished  as  claimed, 
would  leave  the  rate  of  reduction  of  saw  diame- 
ter and  increase  the  life  of  the  saw. 

It  is  claimed  to  give  strong  substantial 
shoulders  to  the  teeth,  thus  making  them  stand 
hard  work  without  dropping  corners,  and  to 
spread  them  about  the  saw  on  the  face  as  on 
the  top,  causing  the  saw  to  cut  easy,  and  clear 
well,  and  steadying  it  in  the  cut. 

In  the  collar  are  depressions  serving  as  guides 
to  keep  the  teeth  in  proper  shape,  by  there 
being  a  sharp  an-gle  for  summer  sawing,  and  a 
ore  obtuse  one  for  winter  work. 
The  question  was  asked  in  a  recent  issue  of 
Tlte  Mechanical  Engineer"  of  New  York: 
"  Suppose  we  have  a  circular  saw,  with  teeth 
•aced  as  shown  in  Fig.  59.     Will  it  make  the 
nt  easier  or  harder  (keeping  the  feed  per  revo- 
lution the  same)  to  cut  out  every  other  tooth, 
s  in  Fig.  60  ?  " 

To  this  the  author  made  substantially  the 
following  reply  : 

"EDITORS  MECHANICAL  ENGINEER  : — In  the 
matter  of  number,  or  distance  apart,  of  circu- 
lar saw  teeth,  referred  to  by  your  correspond- 
ent '  Michigan,'  in  your  last  issue,  page  40, 


64 


SAW-FILING. 


i 
s 


SAW-FfLIKO. 


65 


the  enclosed  sketches  show  the  effect  of  wide 
spacing  by  giving  increased  throat-room,  not 
only  per  tooth,  but  in  the  whole  saw.  In  Fig- 
ure Gl  are  shown  parts  of  three  properly  formed 
teeth  ;  and  the  dotted  rim-line  gives  the  outer 
boundary  of  the  throat-space.  Now  cutting 
out  the  middle  tooth,  as  in  reducing  by  one- 
half  the  number  of  teeth  in  the  saw  each  tooth 
has  to  take  double  depth  of  cut,  if  the  feed  per 
revolution  remains  the  same,  tooth  A  will  have 
as  throat-room  not  only  the  space  «,  which  it 
had  before,  and  the  space,  #,  which  tootli  7? 
had  before  being  cut  out,  but  the  space  occu- 
3ied  by  tooth  B  is  also  added  to  the  throat- 
oom  of  A.  Thus,  while  it  has  double  the  cut, 


Fig.  62. 

ad  hence  removes  double  the  kerf,  it  has 
iree  times  the  space  to  hold  the  sawdust,  or 
ather  cuttings  ;  for  a  rip-saw  should  mortise 


66  SAW-FILING. 

its  way  through  a  log,  and  not  make  fine 
dust. 

"  So,  within  certain  limits,  we  are  gainers  by 
removing  every  other  tooth  ;  for  instead  of  hav- 
ing to  cut  through  the  fibers  twice,  with  a  given 
feed  per  revolution,  they  are  cut  only  once. 
That  is,  if  the  saw  is  56  inches  diameter  and 
has  56  teeth,  and  the  feed  is  7  inches  per  revo- 
lution, each  tooth  will  mortise  I"  deep  at  a  cut ; 
whereas,  with  only  28  feet,  each  tooth  will,  if 
the  feed  remains  7  inches  per  revolution,  cut 
in  I  inch,  and  have  more  than  double  the  space 
to  hold  the  cuttings. 

"If,  then,  the  saw  is  heated  and  bound  be- 
cause of  insufficient  throat-room,  it  will  be  less 
liable  than  before  to  do  so. 

"But  there  is  another  thing  to  look  at.  While 
we  have  lessened  by  one-half  the  amount  of 
power  expended  in  cutting  through  the  fibers, 
we  have  more  than  doubled  the  strain  on  the 
teeth,  in  crumbling  down  and  wedging  out  the 
cuttings;  and  this  strain  tends  to  break  out 
the  teeth-points.  There  would  be  cases  where 
it  would  be  advisable  to  strengthen  the  tooth- 
point,  by  deepening  the  gullet  ;  gradually  work- 
ing it  down  at  each  successive  gumming,  until 
the  outline  was  ns  shown  in  A,  Fig.  62.  This 
s  even  greater  gullet  than  the  outline  shown 


SAW-FILIKG.  67 

in  Fig.  Gl  ;  the  back  and  face  of  the  tooth  have 
the  same  rake  as  before,  but  the  points  are 
stronger. 

"  The  question  of  few  or  many  teeth  in  a  rip- 
saw depends  almost  entirely  upon  the  character 
of  lumber  being  ripped  ;  and  the  feed  per  revo- 
lution  should   be    made   dependent   upon  the 
strength  of  the   teeth  to  resist  breaking,  and 
the  capacity  of  the  gullet  to  hold  the  cuttings. 
In  a  cross-cut  the  conditions  are  different." 
To  Straighten  a  Circular  Saw. — Get  a 
hard-wood  block   12x12",   bed  it,  on   end,  0:1 
the  ground  (not  on  the  floor).     Round  the  top 
off  with,  say  J  inch   rise.     Nail  up  a  joist  at 
ic  back  of  the   block,  for  the  saw  to  rest  on  ; 
et  its  face  be  an  inch  below  the  top  of  the 
•lock.     Do  not  use  an  iron  anvil. 

Use  a  3  or  4  Ib.  blacksmith's  hammer  for 
aws  over  50  inches  ;  a  lighter  one  for  smaller 
tid  thinner  disks. 

For  large  saws  the  straight  edge  should  be 
about  T1-6-"  thick  :— say  20"  long,  3^  wide  in 
enter,  1"  at  end  ;  the  edge  of  the  straight 
iide  chamfered  or  rounded  off. 

Balance  the  saw  on  a  mandrel,  and  apply  the 
traight  edge.    Mark  the  high  places  with  chalk. 
Have  a  helper  to  hold  the  saw  on  the  block, 
ad  hammer  on  the  humps,  testing  frequently. 


68 

By  this  means  a  saw  may  bo  changed  from 
right  to  left  handed,  or  vice  verxa. 

If  the  saw  is  rim-bound,  or  center-bound,  it 
should  be  nailed  between  two  circular  boards 
each  an  inch  larger  than  the  disk,  and  sent  to 
a  good  saw  maker  (preferably  the  one  who 
made  it)  to  be  straightened  and  given  the  pro- 
per tension  for  the  speed  at  which  it  is  to  be  run. 

High  places  may  be  taken  out  of  straight 
saws  in  the  same  way. 

Choice  of  a  Hand-Saw. — A  good  hand- 
saw should  spring  regularly  in  proportion  to  its 
width  and  gauge  ;  that  is,  the  point  should 
spring  more  than  the  heel,  and  the  curve  hence 
not  be  a  perfectly  circular  arc. 

If  the  blade  is  too  thick  for  the  size  of  the 
teeth,  the  saw  will  work  stiffly. 

If  the  blade  is  not  well,  evenly  and  smoothly 
ground,  it  will  drive  hard  and  tend  to  spring. 
The  thinner  the  gauge  and  narrower  the 
blade,  the  more  need  for  perfectly  uniform 
and  smooth  grinding ;  and,  per  contra,  the 
smoother  and  more  uniform  the  grinding,  the 
thinner  and  narrower  a  saw  you  can  use. 

The  cutting  edge  is  very  often  made  on  a 
convex  curve  or  with  a  "crown"  or  "'breast/' 
to  adapt  it  to  the  natural  rocking  motion  of 
the  hand  and  arm. 


SAW-FILING.  69 

By  holding  the  blade  in  a  good  light,  and 
tapping  it,  you  can  see  if  there  are  imperfec- 
tions in  grinding  or  in  hammering. 

Before  buying  a  saw,  test  it  on  about  the 
same  grade  of  work  as  it  is  intended  to  be  put 
to. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  a  saw  that  is 
easily  filed  and  set  is  the  best  for  use.  Quite 
the  reverse  is  true.  A  saw  that  will  take  a 
few  more  minutes  and  a  little  harder  work  to 
sharpen,  will  keep  its  edge  and  set  longer 
than  one  that  can  be  put  in  order  quickly  ; 
and  will  work  better  in  knots  and  hard  wood. 

Comparison  of  Circular  Saw  Teeth.— 
deferring  to  the  line  of  cuts  showing  various 
tyles  of  teeth  for  circular  rip-saws  : — 
Style  63  cuts  a  smooth  surface,  and  the  duller 
smoother,  as  a  rule  ;  but  takes  considerably 
lore  power  to  do  a  given  amount  of  work,  on 
ccount  of  the  friction  at  the  sides.  The  cor- 
ners wearing  off,  would  leave  a  tooth  worn  like 
39,  which,  on  swaging,  would  be  like  70,  re- 
{iiiring  considerable  side-filing.  This  would 
iiuse  the  sa\\r  to  wear  "stunted"  or  obtuse, 
1  aster  than  some  other  styles — notably  that 
iown  at  68,  with  concave  front  edge  and  sides. 
Style  0-1,  with  lono-  curving  taper,  is  a  modi- 
ieat  ion  of  (>;>,  and  approaches  nearer  to  68  ;  con- 


70  SAW-FILING. 

sequently  would  be  somewhat  better  than  63  in 
the  matter  of  power,  swaging,  etc.  Both  styles 
can  be  produced  only  as  inserted  teeth,  and  are 
practicable  only  in  clear,  hard  wood,  and  with 
plenty  of  power. 


64  65  66  67 

Style  G5,  with  straight  front  edge  and  very 
short  curved  sides,  is  the  most  practicable  form 
of  swaged  teeth,  and  is  easily  reproduced  with 
a  few  blows  of  the  swage,  requiring  but  very 
little  side-filing  to  keep  a  sharp  corner,  and 
giving  the  best  possible  side  clearance. 

Style  66,  in  which  the  tooth  has  both  bent 
.Hid  spread  seL  takes  less  power  than  any  other 
style,  wears  ihe  ;>lale  less,  and  will  shift  from 
iny  kind  of  timber  to  another 


SAW-FILING. 


71 


Style  67,  in  which  there  is  bent  set  and  con- 
siderable "  shear/7  is  practicable  only  on  soft 
pine,  as  second  growth  pasture  pine.  Where 
the  timber  grows  with  the  limbs  low  down,  and 
is  as  near  one  way  of  grain  as  another,  this 
style  will  cut  less  fuzz,  and  consequently  take 
less  power,  where  the  tooth  has  stock  enough 
to  resist  the  tendency  to  spread  sideways,  or 
"  make  set,"  as  termed  by  sawyers. 

Style  68,  with  concave  front  edge  and  short 


side  curves,  is  about  like  Of) ;  their  capacity  being 
about  the  same,  giving  05  the  preference. 

Style    71,   with   a    "double   bevel    shear,"  is 
,-!  ally  impracticable,  except  in  very  soft  watc* 


72  EMEKY   WHEELS. 

soaked  pine,  or  hemlock.  Of  course,  where 
the  plate  is  thick  enough  to  give  strength,  it 
takes  less  power  than  a  tooth  of  style 
A  on  the  same  plate.  It  is  better 
fitted  for  a  cut-off  saw  than  for  split- 
ting. It  is  used  by  some  sawyers 
mostly  for  hemlock  taken  from  the 
pond  in  summer  time. 

The  double  bevel  71  answers  for 
plain  triangular  teeth  with  consid- 
erable hook,  but  for  teeth  like  73, 
(which  have  the  same  outline,  but 
are  "  rights  and  lefts,")  F.  H.  Ste- 
vens recommends  such  a  bevel  as 
is  shown  at  72,  in  which  the  bev- 
eled sides,  as  well  as  the  back  of  the  tooth,  have 
clearance. 


Emery  Wheel    vs.    Grindstone.  --  The 

emery  wheel  has  the  advantage  over  the  grind- 
stone that  it  can  be  made  thinner  to  run  with 
safety,  and  can  be  run  at  higher  speed.  The 
principal  objection  urged  against  it  is  its  heat- 
ing the  saw.  This  may  be  obviated  by  using  a 
water-proof  wheel  and  running  a  stream  of  wntor 
diivcily  into  the  cut.  "But  ,•'„",,  <>f  J»H  the 
emery  wheels  used  for  this  purpose  "  (says  M  r. 


EMERY    WHEELS.  73 

T.  Duncan  Paret)  "are  used  dry;  there  being 
but  one  make  of  wheel  in  the  United  States  on 
which  the  use  of  water  is  recommended."  The 
same  intelligent  inventor  and  manufacturer 
writes  the  author  as  follows,  as  to  the  methods 
of  running  wheels  : 

How  to  use  Emery  Wheels. — "  The  sim- 
plest method  by  which  solid  emery  wheels  can 
be  applied  for  saw  gumming  is  by  placing  them 
on  the  spindle  of  the  circular  saw.  The  saw  to 
be  gummed  can  then  be  laid  on  the  saw  table, 
or  supported  in  any  convenient  way.  A  simple 
way  is  to  pass  the  end  of  a  rope  with  a  small 
cross  stick  on  it  through  the  eye  of  the  saw, 
and  thus  suspend  the  saw  so  that  it  swings 
evenly  balanced  just  in  front  of  the  emery 
wheel.  The  weight  being  thus  carried,  the 
operator  only  has  to  use  his  hands  to  guide  the 
saw  against  the  wheel.  In  the  south  and  south- 
west, where  expensive  machinery  is  scanty,  and 
where  people  are  slow  to  introduce  the  latest 
improvements,  there  is  a  steady  demand  for 
saw  gumming  wheels  all  the  way  from  14  to  24 
inches  in  diameter.  In  the  north-west,  where 
the  latest  improvements  are  quickly  added,  re- 
gard less  of  price,  nearly  all  the  emery  wheels 
used  for  sa \v-gumming  are  from  12  inches  in 
diameter  to  S  inches,  none,  of  the  machines  spc* 


74  EMERY    WHEELS. 

cially  designed  for  saw  gumming  being  intended 
to  carry  anything  above  a  12-inch  wheel." 

Sizes  and  Shapes  of  Emery  Wheels.— 
Saw  gumming  wheels  are  used  with  the  edge 
(or  face)  square,  round,  or  beveled. 

The  principal  sizes  are  : 


Holes,  4%  1 
and  1  inch. 


8xi  U  in.  hole.     }{{*?   1 4  in.  hole. 

8x^  \ 


} 


Probably  more  wheels  12xf,  12x|,  and  12x| 
are  used,  than  all  the  other  sizes  together.  Saw 
gumming  wheels  are  used,  however,  of  all  sizes 
up  to  24xH. 

While  the  variety  of  sizes  as  well  as  of  shapes 
is  largely  dependent  on  the  variety  of  saws,  it 
is  also  greatly  influenced  by  individual  taste 
and  opinion.  The  general  preference  is  for  bev- 
eled Avheels,  and  probably  j-  of  all  sold  for  sn\v 
gumming  purposes  are  this  shape. 

In  this  connection  the  gentleman  last  quoted 
says:  "  It  seems  questionable  whether  this  choice 
is  wise.  On  page  226,  2d  edition  '  Grimshaw 
on  Saws,'  it  is  stated  that  'Sawdust  packs  in 
the  side  of  the  log  and  board,  sometimes  on 
account  of  the  shape  of  the  gullet.'  Kow 
where  a  hoveled  wheel  is  used,  there  is  too  little 


EMERY    WHEELS. 


75 


room  at  the  bottom  of  the  gullet  to  hold  any 
sawdust,  and  it  is  forced  between  the  saw  and 
the  wood.  Where  a  round  faced  wheel  is  used, 
and  a  large,  full,  round  gullet  left,  there  is 
space  for  the  sawdust  to  be  accumulated  and 
carried  round  with  the  saw  till  it  leaves  the  log 
and  drops  the  dust.  I  am  therefore  inclined  to 
think  that  round  faced  wheels  are  preferable.5' 
We  show  herewith,  in  actual  thickness,  the 
largest  and  smallest  usual  sizes  of  saw  gum- 
ming wheels  made  by  the  Tanite  Co. : 


76 


EMEHY    AY  HEELS,  ft 

Figs.  74  and  75  are  regular  bevel ;  70  and  77, 
half  round ;  78,  short  blunt  bevel  ;  79,  blunt 
double  bevel ;  80,  irregular  double  bevel  ;  81, 
double  beveled  from  flange. 

Hardness  of  Emery  Wheels. — The  Tan- 
ite  Co.  makes  five  distinct  classes  for  saw  gum- 
ming ;  and  can  so  vary  the  quality  as  to  suit 
all  tastes.  We  give  below  a  brief  description  of 
these  classes  : 

"2."  Medium  hard  ;  preferred  by  J  the  pur- 
chasers ;  is  a  fast  cutting  wheel,  too  hard  for 
some,  too  soft  for  others. 

"3."  Medium  soft;  same  grain  as  class  2, 
but  softer  and  freer  cutting. 

"Pocono."  Extra  soft,  recommended  by  its 
makers,  above  the  other  grades.  It  is  finer 
grained  and  softer  than  either  2  or  3,  and  is 
particularly  recommended  to  those  experienced 
practical  sawyers  "who  know  how  to  grind 
with  a  light  touch,  and  who  want  a  free  cut- 
ting wheel  that  will  not  create  much  heat.7' 

"Paradise."  Same  coarseness  as  "3,"  but 
rougher,  more  open,  and  faster  cutting. 

"  5  Special."  A  fine  soft  wheel  only  used  on 
automatic  saw  gumming  machines 


78  BRAZING    BAND    SAWS. 

Brazing  Band  Saws.  —  The  gasoline 
blowpipe  is  the  most  convenient  means  of 
heating  large-size  band  saws  for  brazing ; 
but  an  ordinary  mouth  blow-pipe  and  oil 
lamp  with  a  large  wick  makes  satisfactory 
work  for  light  band  saws. 

Scarf  the  sides  of  the  broken  end  on  op- 
posite sides  about  half  through,  and  lap 
about  f  to  i  an  inch  for  small  saws.  Place 
in  the  lap  a  thin  piece  of  coin  silver,  which 
flows  better  and  is  tougher  than  brass. 
Moisten  the  surfaces  with  borax,  ground  on 
a  stone  with  water  to  a  paste.  Bind  with 
small  binding  wire  of  iron  ;  pin  to  a  piece 
of  flat  charcoal  with  wire  clips,  and  heat 
with  the  broad  flame  from  the  blowpipe. 
Where  convenient,  a  pair  of  tongs  may  be 
heated  to  a  white  heat  and  gripped  upon 
the  splice.  Then  carefully  file  the  overlap- 
ping parts  to  an  even  thickness. 

For  very  heavy  saws,  a  resort  to  riveting 
is  often  made  to  hold  the  scarfs  together 
firmly.  For  good  work,  the  solder  should 
be  thin  and  placed  in  the  scarf  with  enough 
to  overlap  so  as  to  fill  the  scarf  when  melted. 


SPEED    OK    CIRCULAR    SAWS.  79 

Speed  of  Circular  Saws. — The  speed  of 
saws  is  very  essential  to  the  production  of 
good  lumber.  There  is  a  standard.  A  good 
sawyer  will  retain  his  speed — not  a  given 
standard,  but  as  to  the  condition  of  the  saw's 
tension.  The  log  takes  the  saw  above  or 
below  the  speed  it  is  destined  to  run  at, 
which  is  attended  invariably  by  bad  sawing. 
New  saws  should  be  kept  up  to  speed  by 
all  means,  or  the  saw  will  eventually  dish 
permanently  and  have  to  be  rehammered. 
A  saw  not  up  to  its  speed  invariably  runs 
from  the  log  dishing.  This  will  eventually 
Dermanently  dish  the  saw.  A  sawmaker, 
dien  taking  the  order  for  the  saw,  is  given 
speed  about  so  and  so,  and  he,  knowing 
:>ut  little  better,  takes  it  down.  Now,  this 
is  known  to  vary  200  revolutions.  The  saw 
3eing  hammered  too  open  is  condemned  as 
lefective ;  it  won't  run  because  it  won't 
stand  up  to  its  work.  .  If  the  sawyer  had 
jcod  judgment,  he  would  be  very  particular 
about  correct  speed.  A  good  sawyer  will 
try  to  maintain  the  speed  to  suit  the  saw's 
condition  or  hammer  it. 


80  SPEED    OF    CIRCULAR    SAWS. 

The  greatest  trouble  is  in  too  high  speed. 
This  brings  about,  first,  bad  lumber,  second, 
a  spoiled  saw,  as  there  is  nothing  that  ruins 
a  saw  quicker  than  heat  on  the  rim  and  run- 
ning it  winding  across  the  log.  A  great 
many  adhere  to  the  stiffness  of  the  saw, 
wanting  a  stiff  saw.  This  is  all  right  if 
some  consideration  is  taken.  If  a  saw  is  a 
heavy  gauge,  48  to  54  inches,  running  at  a 
slow  speed,  a  stiff  saw  is  all  right.  Such  a 
man  will  contend  for  a  stiff  saw  on  any 
mill,  judging  from  experience,  but  this  is 
limited. 

Centrifugal  force  is  a  natural  strain  that 
a  high  speed  is  exposed  to,  and  no  high- 
speeded  saw  will  stand  one-half  the  abuse 
that  a  moderate-speed  saw  will.  One  thing  : 
it  will  cut  just  two  or  three  times  as  much 
lumber.  The  higher  the  speed,  the  more 
and  better  lumber  is  made.  If  everything 
in  connection  with  the  saw  is  in  perfect 
condition,  and  capable  of  standing  it,  11,000 
feet,  or  two  miles,  per  minute  on  the  rim  is 
fast  enough  for  most  any  of  our  mills.  We 
sometimes  find  them  running  over  12,000 — 


; 


SPEED    OF   CIRCULAR   SAWS.  81 

10,000  is  suitable  for  the  average  mill ;  and 
if  saw  is  ordered  hammered  to  that  speed, 
the  sawyer  should  see  that  it  runs  very 
nearly  to  it. 

All  saws  should  be  as  stiff  at  their  speed 
as  the  metal  will  allow.  If  properly  ad- 
justed, any  saw  can  be  made  so.  Saws  run- 
ning at  a  high  speed  are  liable  to  crack 
or  check,  if  not  hammered  right,  which 
few  men  thoroughly  understand.  Many 
sawmakers  overlook  this,  and  where  there 
is  complaint  of  cracked  saw,  too  often  the 

.wmaker  attributes  it  to  fire  cracks,  bad 
umming,  and  the  like,  when  nine  times 
out  of  ten  it  is  in  the  tension. 

Swing  cut-off  saws  should  not  run  over 
10,000  feet  per  minute,  owing  to  their  be- 
ing liable  to  fracture  from  being  jammed  or 
finished  so  often.  A  mill  may  be  speeded 
up  as  it  should  and  the  saw  not  run  well. 
This  is  when  the  saw  needs  hammering. 
If  the  sawyer  can't  do  it,  and  has  not  the 
tools,  he  should  send  it  to  where  it  can  be 
done.  Too  much  time  is  often  lost  work- 
ing with  a  saw  needing  hammering,  to  say 


82  SPEED    OF   CIRCULAR 


nothing  of  the  lumber  spoiled.  Some  saws 
have  to  be  hammered  very  often,  owing  to 
the  manner  in  which  they  are  tensioned. 

A  thick  saw  will  stand  a  higher  speed 
than  a  thin  one  ;  but  a  rim  velocity  of  ior 

000  feet  per  minute  is  as  fast  as  a  saw  ever 
ought  to  run.     A  taper  saw  will  stand  a 
higher  speed  than  an  even  gauge,  for  the 
reason  that  the  rim  is  lighter,  and  the  ex- 
pansion from  centrifugal  force  will  be  less. 

If  a  saw  heats  in  the  center,  give  it  more 
set  ;  if  it  heats  on  the  rim,  either  the  backs 
of  the  teeth  are  too  high,  or  the  saw  is  cut- 
ting with  too  much  feed,  and  it  chokes. 

THE   USUAL    SPEEDS     FOR   CIRCULAR     SAWS 
IN   REVOLUTIONS   PER   MINUTE. 

12  inch,  3,000  30  inch,  1,200  58  inch,  625 

16  inch,    .->,222  34  inch,  1,058  60  inch,  600 

1  8  inch,   2,000  38  inch,  950  62  inch,  575 
20  inch,   i,  800  42  inch,  870  64  inch,  550 
22  inch,   1,636  46  inch,  800  66  inch,  545 
24  inch,   1,500  50  inch,  725  68  inch,  529 
26  inch,   1,384  54  inch,  675  70  inch,  540 
28  inch,   1,285  56  inch,  650  72  inch,  500 
and  in  proportion  for  intermediate  sizes. 

A  56-inch  saw  of  first-class  make  and  set, 


TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SA\VS.  83 

running  at  625  revolutions  per  minute,  has 
cut  116  feet  of  poplar  and  pine  boards  per 
minute,  and  from  90  to  100  feet  of  oak  per 
minute — using  about  100  horse  power. 

It  is  estimated  that  in  small  mills,  say  of 
10  horse  power,  a  single  saw  will  cut  4,000 
feet  of  boards  in  10  hours.  In  larger  mills 
i,ooofeet  per  horse  power  per  day  is  not  an 
uncommon  product. 

How  to  Hammer  Circular  Saws.— An 
old  sawyer  gives  the  following  advice  on 
the  care  of  saws  : 

The  saw  being  the  life  of  your  mill,  keep 
it  in  good  condition.  The  chief  element  of 
lis  is  in  hammering  and  keeping  the  saw 
straight  and  true.  The  former  we  will 
term  tension,  which  applies  to  keeping  the 
iw  open  to  accommodate  the  centrifugal 
force  applied  by  its  speed.  The  latter, 
straightening,  applies  to  keeping  the  plate 
lie  and  free  from  lumps.  Saw  hammering 

a  peculiar  art,  and  accomplished  by  but 
ew  to  any  degree  of  perfection,  simply 
from  the  many  fogy  ideas  advanced  by  men, 
some  of  whom  boast  of  their  twenty  years' 


84  TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SAWS. 

experience.  I  have  stood  for  ten  years  at 
the  lever,  watching  closely  every  so-called 
peculiarity  of  the  saw. 

The  first  thing  is  to  straighten  your  saw. 
This  is  done  on  a  wooden,  firm,  end-grain 
block  or  leather-padded  anvil.  All  mill 
saws  dish  more  or  less  from  the  log,  and  are 
full  on  that  side.  It  is  necessary  to  lean 
the  saw  until  the  center  sags  so  that  it  will 
appear  as  straight  as  possible,  then  with  a 
2o-inch  straight-edge  mark  all  the  full 
places,  watching  closely  just  outside  of  the 
collar.  Near  the  rim  apply  the  straight- 
edge at  right  angles  in  several  positions  ;  it 
is  best  to  use,  say,  a  1 2-inch  straight-edge 
on  the  rim,  as  you  can  get  closer  to  the 
teeth.  Mark  your  saw  with  chalk  or  hard 
soap,  on  the  rim,  when  you  find  places  to 
show  straight  one  way,  but  high  the  other 
way  ;  make  a  long  mark  directly  in  line 
with  the  straightest  way.  This  indicates 
a  twist,  and  will  in  all  cases  on  the  rim  ex- 
tend toward  the  center  of  the  saw.  When 
the  2oinch  straight-edge  is  applied  on  the 
radius  (from  center  to  rim),  such  a  place 


TO    IIAMMKK    CIRCULAR    SAWS.  85 

will  not  show,  but  take  the  1 2-inch  and  ap- 
ply across  this  line,  and  yon  will  find  it  to 
be  high.  If  there  is  a  twist,  it  will  be 
higher  on  the  extreme  edge.  The  straight 
pene  hammer  must  be  used  on  such  places, 
the  straightway  of  the  hammer  directly  on 
the  straightest  way  of  the  saw,  which  is  to- 
ward the  center.  As  the  extreme  edge  is 
the  highest,  nearly  all  the  blows  must  be 
applied  there,  care  being  taken  not  to  go 
too  far  in.  A  twist  showing  six  inches  is 
often  removed  by.  hammering  only  on  the 
rim.  Twisted  places  are  sometimes  found 
at  the  center  when  the  saw  is  dished. 

Having  laid  off  the  saw,  go  to  the  block 
and  strike  one  blow  on  every  mark  with  the 
round  face  of  the  hammer,  using  the  long 
face  on  the  long  marks.  The  first  opera- 
tion may  dish  the  saw  in  the  other  way, 
which,  if  not  too  much,  shows  good  work. 
Don't  rub  out  your  marks,  and  when  the 
other  side  is  laid  off,  notice  if  any  of  the 
marks  correspond  ;  if  so,  too  heavy  a  blow 
was  applied  ;  in  this  way  the  heft  of  blows 
can  be  determined.  Work  on  both  sides  of 


86  TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SAWS. 

the  saw,  getting  the  rim  as  true  as  possible 
and  leave  it  leaning  a  trifle  to  the  log.  This 
constitutes  a  straightening.  If  your  saw's 
tension  is  nearly  right  it  will  now  run  much 
better,  but  this  is  not  always  the  case.  I 
will  add  here  that  before  attempting  to 
straighten  a  saw  as  described,  a  careful  in- 
spection must  be  made.  All  saws  get  long 
or  loose  on  the  rim  by  use,  and  it  is  a  com- 
mon thing  among  small  mills  to  find  saws 
so  loose  on  the  rim  as  to  form  a  twist  or 
winding  position  ;  if  not  quite  so  loose,  it 
will  not  be  winding,  but  may  appear  nearly 
straight  with  the  rim  very  flimsy,  while 
the  center  will  be  as  stiff  as  a  board.  In 
short,  all  such  saws  are  stiff  in  the  center 
and  will  not  give,  and  must  be  tensioned 
before  straightening. 

This  tensioning  is  done  by  stretching  the 
saw  nearer  the  center  on  an  anvil  with  firm 
blows,  regardless  of  the  lumps  in  the  saw. 
First,  strike  a  circle  line  one-half  way  the 
radius,  then  t\vo  lines  two  inches  apart  be- 
low this,  and  one  above,  four  lines  in  all. 
Hammer  the  two  center  lines  first  on  both 


TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SAWS.  87 

sides  of  the  saw,  but  if  it  is  very  loose  on 
the  rim,  it  will  often  require  four  to  six 
lines ;  in  such  cases  the  lines  can  be  closer 
together.  Never  go  nearer  the  rim  than 
one-third  the  radius,  and  not  much  closer 
to  the  center.  Keep  this  in  view.  The 
one-half  way  part  of  the  saw  must  be  the 
more  open.  A  saw  open  too  near  the  cen- 
ter will  not  run  at  all  in  many  cases.  After 
giving  your  saw  some  tension,  nine  times 
out  of  ten  your  twisted  saw,  to  your  sur- 
prise, will  show  up  straight.  Sometimes  a 
saw  gets  twisted  through  accident ;  such 
saws  will  show  the  center  a  little  loose,  and 
when  they  do,  take  the  twisted  saw  to  the 
block  with  a  long  pene,  as  stated.  High- 
speeded  saws  require  to  be  more  open  in  the 
center,  many  of  them  dishing  through  with 
a  snap.  A  saw  too  open  will  heat  in  the 
center  and  crowd  from  the  log,  while  a  saw 
too  loose  on  the  rim  will  snake  and  assume 
a  complete  wind  or  twist  when  a  little  hot 
on  the  rim.  In  such  cases  the  center  has 
to  run  hot  in  order  to  get  anything  like 
work  out  of  the  saw.  A  saw  too  open  in 


88  TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SAWS. 

the  center  is  stiffened  by  hammering  the 
rim,  not  nearer  than  two  inches  of  the 
teeth ;  very  little  work  on  the  rim  will 
change  a  saw.  When  the  saw  has  abont  the 
right  spring,  straighten  it  up  on  the  block  ; 
then  a  trial  will  determine  its  tension.  If 
the  saw  will  not  screw  up  true,  the  collar 
should  be  turned.  If  a  saw  is  to  remain  on 
the  mandrel,  it  may  be  papered  if  the  col- 
lars dish  it. 

It  is  very  essential  that  unequal  tension 
be  corrected  in  a  saw  that  runs  at  a  high  or 
even  moderate  speed.  Not  one  man  in 
fifty  knows  anything  about  this,  to  say 
nothing  of  how  to  remove  it. 

Unequal  tension  is  this  :  One  part  of  the 
saw  being  tighter  or  more  open  than  the 
other.  I  could  write  a  volume  on  this 
important  part  of  the  saw's  life.  Now, 
to  remove  it,  and  in  the  simplest  way, 
screw  the  saw  up  on  the  mandrel,  take 
hold  of  the  tail  of  the  saw  with  the 
right  hand  (if  it  is  a  right-hand  mill) 
and  spring  the  saw  all  you  can  to  you, 
and  at  the  same  time  apply  the  long 


TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SAWS.  89 

straight-edge  and  notice  closely  the  open- 
ing. Apply  the  straight-edge  say  every 
six  inches,  moving  the  saw  and  noticing 
the  variation  in  light.  You  will  find  some 
places  spring  more,  while  others  remain 
nearly  to  the  straight-edge ;  mark  these 
places  plainly.  Now  go  on  the  outside  of 
the  saw,  having  everything  free,  so  you  can 
spring  the  saw,  except  the  guide  pins,  which 
must  be  close  to  the  saw.  On  this  side 
mark  the  variations  as  before.  If  your  saw 
has  a  loose  place,  you  will  find  that  it  stood 
off  more  on  both  sides  at  that  place.  A 
tight  place  will  stand  off  less  and  alike  on 

h  sides.  In  simpler  words,  loose  places 
ippear  as  though  the  plate  was  very  thin, 
while  tight  places  appear  .  thick  because 
they  stand  closer  to  the  straight-edge  on 
both  sides  of  the  saw,  loose  places  the  far- 
thest away.  An  open  place  on  one  side 
which  shows  high  on  the  other  indicates  a 
lump ;  such  a  saw  is  not  true,  and  must  be 
taken  to  the  block  and  trued  up. 

To  remove  loose  places,  hammer  near  the 
rim  opposite  such  a  place.  Tight  places  are 


90  TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SAWS. 

stretched  right  where  they  show  it.  For 
practical  purposes,  the  saw  should  show 
very  nearly  the  same  spring  all  around. 
Always  test  both  sides,  and  when  even  a 
slight  variation  is  found  it  should  be  re- 
moved ;  then,  if  the  saw  is  too  open  or  too 
stiff,  treat  the  center  or  rim  a  little  on  the 
anvil. 

The  fogy  method  is  to  always  hammer  a 
saw  on  the  anvil,  striking  it  as  heavily  as 
possible.  When  a  saw  requires  a  little 
straightening,  it  is  mostly  on  the  rim  (the 
outlet  of  the  saw) ;  if  this  is  done  on  the 
anvil,  what  is  the  result?  Lumps  partly 
beaten  down,  with  all  the  tension  gone ; 
then  the  hammerer  goes  to  the  center  to 
overcome  just  what  he  ought  not  to  have 
done.  A  few  blows  on  the  block,  and  the 
saw  would  have  retained  its  tension — been 
in  better  shape  with  ten  times  less  work. 
No  man  can  remove  a  twist  in  this  way, 
directly  on  the  rim.  I  have  noticed  over 
fifty  such  men,  and  they  never  get  right  up 
to  the  rim  of  a  saw.  Why?  Because-  it 
\yill  curl  up,  every  time,  on  the  anvil, 


TO    HAMMER   CIRCULAR   SAWS.  91 

Test  this  with  a  piece  of  sheet  iron  and 
be  convinced.  The  tinner,  iron  and  copper- 
smith are  sensible  men ;  they  have  their 
copper  or  mallet  hammer  and  a  smooth 
block  to  straighten  their  work  on.  Why  ? 
Because  only  a  blow  or  two  on  an  anvil 
would  stretch  it  into  a  wind,  and  then  they 
are  done.  The  saw  is  precisely  the  same 
way,  and  it  remains  only  a  question  of  time 
that  the  saw  will  be  unequally  tensioned, 
and  then  it  is  done.  A  man  that  knows 
anything  about  tension  in  a  saw  will  take 
care  of  that  vital  part.  Take  a  dished  saw 
that  requires  only  a  few  light  blows  near 
the  collar,  on  the  block.  What  does  the 
fogy  do?  Stretch  the  rim,  "  pulling  the 
dish  "  out,  and  a  lot  of  other  foolish  things. 
A  saw  too  open  requires  the  rim  stretched, 
but  never  a  dished  saw.  Another  idea  is  to 
hammer  in  lines  from  the  center  to  the  rim, 
only  to  result  in  tight  and  loose  lines  and  to 
buckle  the  saw.  A  man  of  gumption  ought 
to  know  better  than  this,  and  this  is  the 
cause  of  many  fractured  saws.  Others' 
theories  are,  that  when  a  saw  is  sprung  it 


92  HORSE    POWER. 

must  be  sprung  more  to  get  the  lump  back. 
My  idea  is,  if  it  is  sprung  it  ought  not  to 
be,  and  should  be  gotten  back  without  addi- 
tional stretching,  namely  :  the  block. 

Small  saws  are  treated  precisely  as  large 
ones,  but  much  more  mildly.  An  expert, 
changing  from  a  thick  saw  to  a  thin  one, 
invariably  will  strike  too  heavily  ;  great 
care  must  be  exercised.  They  require  but 
little  tensioning,  and  should  be  stiff.  Blue 
spots  are  treated  on  the  block,  and  when 
they  come  back  the  rim  should  be  stretched 
opposite  such  a  place.  Their  appearance 
continually  indicates  a  loose  place. 

Horse  Power  Required  to  Run  Circu- 
lar Saws.— The  horse  power  required  to 
drive  circular  saws  doing  no  work,  accord- 
ing to  experiments,  is  represented  by  the 

formula :    Power  = in    which  n  is 

32,000 

the  number  of  revolutions  per  minute  and 
d  the  diameter  of  the  saw  in  inches,  to 
which  the  net  power  for  cutting  should  be 

added,  which  is  -    -  for  soft  wood  and     . 
12  6 


HORSE    POWER.  93 

for  hard  wood.  A  —  square  feet  of  surface 
of  lumber  cut  per  foot  in  length  ;  C=  thick- 
ness of  kerf  or  cut  in  decimals  of  an  inch. 
For  example,  a  56-inch  saw  running  free 
at  650  revolutions  per  minute  requires  a 

.  650  x  56 

speed  power  or ==1.14  horse  power  ; 

32,000 

and  to  cut  pine  logs  that  will  make  an  aver- 
age of  10  boards  of  12  inches  in  width,  the 
area  of  surface  for  1 3  cuts,  including  edging, 
in  the  log  for  each  foot  in  length  =  13 
square  feet ;  and  if  the  saw  cuts  a  kerf 
.2  of  an  inch  wide,  then  for  30^,000  feet 
er  day  of  10  hours  the  amount  will  be 

A  C 
feet  per  minute.     By  the  formula  - 

12 

for  pine  and  white  wood,  13  x  2  =  26  square 
feet  of  board  surface  per  foot  in  length  and 

>X.2 

=  .43  x  50  =  21.5  horse  power,  and 

for  hard  wood  -  =  .86  x  50  =  43  horse 

Dower ;  to  each  of  which  should  be  added 
.14   horse    power   for   the  saw  alone  and 
enough  for  running  intermediate   shafting 
;ino  belting. 


94  CARE    OF   HAND    SAWS. 

Filing  and  Setting  Hand  Saws;  Jointing; 
Saw  Clamps;  Saw  Sets;  Files  and  Vises; 
Keyhole  and  Compass  Saws;  Butchers'  and 
Meat  Saws. — Modern  tools  and  machinery 
have  made  the  various  operations  of  filing, 
setting  and  polishing  hand  and  other  saws 
much  simpler  than  a  few  years  ago,  and 
nowadays  any  amateur  can,  with  a  little 
practice,  set,  file,  gum  or  straighten  any 
ordinary  saw  as  well  as  an  expert. 

While  saws  are  far  cheaper  than  formerly 
it  still  pays  to  care  for  a  saw  properly  and 
to  have  the  right  kind  of  tools  and  files  for 
keeping  even  the  cheapest  saws  in  good  con- 
dition. 

Broken,  warped,  bent  or  very  rusty  saws 
are  scarcely  worth  bothering  with,  unless 
you  are  far  from  any  store  where  a  new  saw 
can  be  purchased  or  have  to  use  the  old  one 
on  hand  in  case  of  emergency.  Very  fair 
hand  saws  may  be  bought  for  75  cents  to 
$1.50  each,  and  at  such  prices  the  time  re- 
quired to  put  an  old,  badly-used  saw  in  good 
shape  is  worth  more  than  a  new  one. 

Kvery  one  who  uses  saws  of  any  kind 
should,  however,  have  an  up-to-date  saw- 
clamp  similar  to  that  illustrated  in  Fig.  82. 


SAW    CLAMPS. 


95 


This  clamp  should  be  bolted  or  screwed  to 
a  piece  of  wood  which  may  then  be  clamped 
in  a  vise  or  bored  with  holes  and  fitted  with 
bolts  by  which  it  can  be  readily  attached  to 
a  post,  beam  or  bench.  Of  course  where 


Fig.  82. — Saw  Vise  or  Clamp. 

are  used  considerably  and  frequent  set- 
ig  or  tiling  is  necessary,  the  clamp  may  be 
stened    permanently    to    some    convenient 
ench  or  other  object. 
In  using  the  clamp  care  should  be  taken 


96  SAW    SKTS. 

(lint  the  ed^es  of  the  jiiws  are  perfectly 
smooth  and  even.  Many  well  made  clamps 
:in<l  oilier  tools  are  often  varnished,  jap 
mined  or  enamelled  and  drops  of  these  ma- 
terials often  collect  and  harden  on  the  faces 
of  the  jaws,  thus  tending  to  an  insecure  and 
iMiceriain  ^rrip  and  liability  of  bending  or 
straining  the  saw  blade.  To  avoid  this  and 
prevent  vibration  and  squeaking  the  better 
saw  vises  are  provided  with  rubber  cush- 
ioned jaws. 

In  setting  saws  the  best  tools  to  use  are 
the  hand  sets  shown  in  Fijj.  S:»,.  l*>y  means 
of  the  screw  adjustment  .1,  these  tools  may- 
be changed  to  set  any  ordinary  saw  from 
heavy  crosscut  or  buck-saws  to  tine  toothed 
panel  or  mitre  saws,  and  when  used  care 
fully  will  produce  a  very  uniform  and  regu- 
lar set  on  any  saw.  They  are  very  simple 
to  use  for  the  saw  is  merely  inserted  in  the 
clamp,  the  set  adjusted  to  the  best  pitch  and 
slipped  over  (he  saw  edi^e  and  (he  handles 
of  the  set  pressed  firmly  together  when  the 
tooth  to  be  set  is  exactly  underneath  the 
plunder.  If  familiar  with  setting  saws  for 
various  purposes  (he  user  will  be  able  to 
jud^e  tl:e  amount  of  set  required,  but  if  a 


SETTING    SAWS. 


97 


novice  it  is  best  to  place  the  set  over  one  of 
the  teeth  close  to  the  handle  of  the  saw — 
where  they  are  usually  but  slightly  worn, 
and  retain  the  original  set — and  then  ad- 
just the  tool  by  these  teeth. 

Frequently  a  hand  saw  that  has  been  used 


Fig.  83.— Saw  S. 

for  some  time  and  has  been  reset  or  filed 
will  show  a  concave  or  hollow  edge  instead 
of  a  slight  crown.  While  a  saw  thus  worn 
will  work  fairly  well  if  kept  set  and  filed 
yet  a  great  deal  of  time  and  trouble  can  be 
saved  by  grinding  or  filing  down  the  edge 
until  restored  to  its  original  straight  or 
crowned  shape.  To  do  this  the  saw  should  be 
clamped  between  two  strips  of  steel  in  the 


98  JOINTING   HAND   SAWS. 

saw  clamp  as  shown  in  Fig.  84,  and  the  pro- 
jecting edges  filed  or  ground  away.  The 
strips  of  steel,  which  should  be  perfectly 
true  on  the  edges  or  with  a  slight  crown, 
should  then  be  moved  down  on  the  saw  until 
the  upper  edges  are  exactly  in  line  with  the 
lower  edges  of  the  lowest  gullets  on  the  saw. 
With  the  three-cornered  saw  file  go  over 
each  tooth  and  file  it  in  to  the  edge  of  the 


Fig.  84. — Saw  Ready  for  "Jointing." 

steel  strip,  and  when  all  are  thus  treated 
set  and  file  the  saw  as  usual. 

This  operation  is  known  as  "jointing," 
and  is  of  great  importance  if  a  saw  is  to  be 
kept  in  first-class  condition.  While  it  is 
easily  done  by  using  a  file  as  described,  yet 
it  can  also  be  accomplished  by  using  a  ready- 
made  "jointer  clamp"  or  a  carborundum  or 
emery  wheel  in  place  of  the  file. 

It  is  next  to  impossible  to  set  a  saw  by 
any  hand  method  so  that  all  the  teeth  arc 
exactly  even,  and  for  truing  these  teeth  up 
and  thus  producing  an  even  running  and 


SIDE    FILING. 


99 


clean  cutting  saw  a  side  file  should  be  used. 
This  consists  of  a  flat  file  and  holder  as 
shown  in  Fig.  85,  which  can  be  adjusted  by 
set  screws  to  fit  any  width  of  set. 

In  filing  a  saw  considerable  practice  is 


Fig.  85.— Side  File  and  Clamp. 

required,  but  otherwise  no  great  skill  is 
essential.  There  are,  however,  a  few  im- 
portant points  to  bear  in  inind.  Always 
hold  your  file  nearly  level;  file  a  few  teeth 
and  then  turn  the  saw  over  and  file  the  alter- 
nate teeth  on  the  opposite  side  to  see  if  they 
shape  up  evenly.  If  they  appear  all  right 
you  can  then  turn  the  saw  back  so  the 


100  FILING   HAND   SAWS. 

handle  comes  at  your  left  hand  and  file  all 
the  teeth  on  that  side.  This  is  the  hardest 
side  of  the  saw  to  file  properly,  and  after 
this  side  is  done  you  can  turn  the  saw 
around  with  handle  to  your  right  and  file 
this  side.  If  you  attempt  to  file  this  side 
first  you  would  be  almost  certain  to  cut  the 
teeth  too  deep,  and  if  you  continually  turn 
the  saw  first  on  one  side  and  then  t'he  other 
you  will  get  the  teeth  uneven.  A  common 
trouble  is  in  getting  large  teeth  one  side 
and  small  ones  the  other.  This  causes  the 
saw  to  turn  or  "lead"  to  one  side  in  use. 
This  unevenness  is  due  to  changing  the  posi- 
tion of  the  file  or  hand  or  to  turning  the 
saw  from  side  to  side  while  you  work. 

When  a  tooth  comes  to  a  point?  filing 
should  be  stopped,  even  if  the  shape  is  not 
perfect,  for  it  is  better  to  let  the  shape  go 
rather  than  cut  down  more  of  the  tooth  and 
get  it  out  of  line.  Where  an  old  saw  has 
teeth  of  varying  sizes  from  improper  filing, 
you  will  have  to  file  it  twice  to  remedy  it. 
The  larger  teeth  will  be  the  longest,  so  they 
should  be  filed  or  "jointed"  down  until  all 
are  even  and  then  the  saw  should  be  filed 
with  the  file  held  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees 


FILING    HAND    SAWS.  101 

and  nearly  level,  with  the  file  tipped  in  such 
a  way  that  the  corner  strikes  the  bottom  of 
each  tooth  first.  Pay  no  attention  to  the 
small  teeth,  but  note  the  large  teeth  and 
keep  the  file  bearing  against  the  face  of 
the  tooth  you  are  working  on.  This  will  re- 
sult in  keeping  away  from  the  small  teeth 
and  cutting  down  the  large  ones.  If  the 
hook  or  "rake"  of  the  teeth  is  poor  it  should 
be  increased  by  filing  the  face  of  each  tooth, 
using  the  file  so  that  it  cuts  into  the  base  or 
"gullet"  of  the  tooth  first.  While  filing  the 
back  of  the  teeth  makes  an  apparent  increase 
dn  the  hook,  yet  in  reality  it  does  not  do  so. 

To  maintain  a  saw  in  good  shape  you 
must  vary  the  position  of  your  file  each 
time  it  is  used.  If  you  follow  the  same  angle 
and  level  each  time  poor  results  will  follow 
and  instead  you  should  keep  cutting  away 
under  the  base  of  the  teeth,  taking  a  long 
bevel  each  time  the  saw  is  filed.  A  saw  for 
hard  wood  requires  less  bevel  than  for  soft, 
but  for  ordinary  purposes  the  bevel  should 
be  maintained  that  will  work  most  easily 
on  either  hard,  soft,  or  medium  woods. 

Hand  saws,  especially  panel  and  mitre 
saws,  are  very  apt  to  bend,  warp  or  buckle. 


102  STRAIGHTENING    SAWS. 

The  slightest  bend  will  make  a  saw  drive 
hard  and  saw  crookedly,  and  any  such  devia- 
tion from  a  true  surface  should  be  remedied 
at  once  for  it  will  rapidly  increase  and  soon 
become  too  bad  to  overcome.  Any  slight 
crook  or  bend  may  be  removed  by  placing 
the  saw  upon  a  slightly  rounded  block  of 
hard  wood  and  striking  the  saw  a  smart 
blow  with  a  medium  weight  hammer.  Great 
care  should  be  used  not  to  strike  too  hard 
or  in  a  glancing  direction,  and  much  bet- 
ter results  may  be  accomplished  by  repeated 
light  blows  than  by  single  heavy  blows. 
There  are  several  good  methods  of  ascertain- 
ing the  spots  to  be  straightened  and  a  good 
method  is  as  follows :  The  saw  blade  should 
be  laid  upon  a  perfectly  flat  surface  and 
rubbed  over  with  Prussian  blue  tube  oil 
color  spread  evenly  over  it.  A  smooth,  per- 
fectly true  piece  of  iron  or  steel  is  then 
drawn  along  the  blade,  and  the  high  or 
warped  spots  will  readily  show  by  the  blue 
rubbing  oil',  while  hollow  or  indented  spots 
will  remain  coated  with  the  paint.  Another 
method  is  to  place  the  saw  on  a  smooth 
even  surface — a  piece  of  heavy  plate  glass 
is  the  best — and  run  a  straight  edge  over 


STRAIGHTENING    SAWS.  103 

it,  marking  the  bent  or  warped  spots  with 
chalk.  If  a  hand  saw  is  bent  and  refuses 
to  straighten  by  hammering  it  may  often  be 
straightened  by  a  slight  application  of  heat. 
This  is  best  accomplished  by  rubbing  a  red 
or  white  hot  piece  of  iron  over  the  surface 
of  the  concave  side  of  the  bend.  If  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  saw  is  resting  on  a  cold  or 
wet  surface — such  as  a  wet  cloth  spread  flat 
—the  heat  on  one  side  will  cause  the  iron 
to  expand  and  straighten  the  bend  in  most 
cases.  If  the  saw  buckles  back  after  cool- 
ing it  should  be  treated  again,  and  while 
still  warm  and  straight,  a  few  blows  with 
a  hammer  should  be  given  the  surface  where 
the  bend  occurs.  This  will  still  further  ex- 
pand the  metal  and  will  straighten  the 
blade.  Great  care  should  be  taken  not  to 
heat  the  saw  enough  to  injure  the  temper 
and  the  hot  iron  should  be  merely  passed 
over  the  surface  of  the  blade  and  not  held 
against  it  for  any  length  of  time. 

Keyhole  and  compass  saws  are  usually 
rather  soft  and  easily  bent,  and  can  only 
be  kept  straight  by  careful  use  and  frequent 
straightening  by  heat  or  hammering. 

Butcher's  and  meat  saws  are  seldom  trou- 


104  BUTCHER'S  SAWS. 

blesome  by  crookedness  or  warping  as  they 
are  set  taut  in  frames  and  are  quite  flex- 
ible. Many  of  these  saws  are  injured  or 
ruined  by  repeated  setting  and  filing  by  in- 
competent itinerant  tinkers  and  scissors 
grinders  with  no  practical  knowledge  of 
saws  or  their  requirements  and  practically 
any  butcher's  saw  will  show  a  decided  hol- 
low or  concave  edge  after  a  few  filings.  The 
tendency  to  acquire  this  concavity  is  greater 
in  narrow  saws  of  this  sort  than  in  hand 
saws  with  a  wide  blade  for  the  continual  up- 
ward pressure  against  the  blade,  held  be- 
tween the  two  ends  of  the  frame,  will  in  time 
bend  the  blade  edgewise.  It  is  a  very  hard 
matter  to  straighten  a  meat  saw  edgewise 
after  it  has  become  badly  concaved  on  the 
edge,  but  this  trouble  may  be  readily  avoid- 
ed by  filing  the  slightly  worn  or  sharp  teeth 
at  each  end  as  well  as  the  dull  or  worn  teeth 
each  time  the  saw  is  set  and  filed.  Ky  using 
a  straight  edge  in  the  vise  when  filing,  the 
teeth  at  1he  ends  may  be  always  kept  filed 
down  to  Hie  same  height  as  those  in  the 
center,  and  if  this  small  matter  is  looked 
after  crcri/  lime  1he  sa\v  is  tiled  the  saws 
will  invariably  work  better  and  last  longer. 


METAL-WORKING    SAWS.  105 

Metal  Working  Saws;  Hack  Saws  and 
Band  Saws;  Lubricating  Saws;  Sharpening 
Hack  Saws;  Using  Broken  Hack  Saw  Blades; 
Mending  and  Brazing  Band  Saws;  Stopping 
Cracks  from  Spreading;  Adjustable  Adapters 
for  Saw  Blades;  Files  for  Saws;  Filing  Band 
Saws.— Probably  no  class  of  saws  are  sub- 
jected to  such  hard  usage  and  wear  as  the 
various  metal-working  saws  now  in  uni- 
versal use.  Circular  saws,  band  saws,  scroll 
saws  and  hack  saws  are  all  used  in  cutting 
metals  of  various  kinds  and  practically 
every  brass  foundry  uses  band  saws  for  re- 
moving fins  and  projecting  pieces  of  metal 
from  their  castings.  Such  castings  being  of 
various  sizes,  shapes  and  thickness  as  well 
as  of  various  degrees  of  hardness  demand 
the  utmost  limit  of  service  and  endurance 
from  the  saws,  and  as  a  result  the  saws  are 
often  in  very  bad  shape  and  break  long  be- 
fore their  condition  is  apparent  and  proper 
attention  is  given  them.  Short,  stout,  blunt 
teeth  with  a  comparatively  slight.  ofl'set:  and 
straight  edges  give  the  best  service  for  this 
class  of  work,  and  wherever  possible  the 
saws  should  be  selected  that  will  give  the 


106  LUBRICATING   SAWS. 

best  general  results.  A  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  trouble  with  metal-working  saws 
is  due  to  the  heating  of  the  saw  by  its  fric- 
tion with  the  material  being  cut,  and  this  is 
especially  true  of  saws  used  in  trimming 
castings,  as  such  objects  jump  and  wobble 
considerably  on  the  saw  table  and  thus  bind 
the  saw  unevenly.  If  a  thick  oil  is  allowed 
to  drip  on  the  saw  while  in  use  or  tallow  or 
some  similar  lubricant  is  placed  in  a  spring- 
actuated  receptacle  which  presses  it  against 
the  moving  blade,  the  life  of  metal  working 
saws  will  be  greatly  increased.  Perhaps  no 
substance  has  greater  power  to  lubricate 
and  facilitate  cutting  than  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine. This  will  enable  an  ordinary  hack  saw 
to  cut  glass  readily,  and  while  it  will  burn 
and  smoke  if  used  on  a  saw  that  runs  very 
hot,  it  may  be  combined  with  tallow  or 
grease  to  produce  both  a  lubricant  and  an 
aid  to  easy  cutting.  When  using  any  such 
material,  however,  care  should  be  taken  that 
the  cool  lubricant  is  applied  to  both  sur- 
faces of  the  blade  equally  as  otherwise  the 
saw  will  bend,  warp  or  buckle  worse  than 
a  dry  saw. 

Hack  saws,  whether  hand  or  machine,  are 


RESETTING    HACK    SAWS.  107 

seldom  worth  resetting  or  sharpening  as  the 
blades  are  very  cheap  and  are  rapidly  worn 
out.  While  it  is  impracticable  to  reset  or 
file  a  small  hack  saw  by  hand  yet  blades 
that  are  dulled  or  clogged  may  be  greatly 
improved  by  a  bath 
in  dilute  sulphuric 
and  muriatic  acid. 
This  eats  away  a 
small  quantity  of 

metal     leaving    a     Fi&-  86- — Saw  Teetn  as  Seen 
dl>     J  [1  b  Under  a  Microscope. 

sharp    "  saw  -  tooth  " 

edge,  which  appears  as  in  Fig.  8G  when  seen 

under  a  microscope. 

As  soon  as  the  saw  is  sufficiently  cut  by 
this  method  it  should  be  immersed  in  a 
strong  solution  of  soda  or  other  alkali  and 
then  wiped  dry,  warmed  and  thoroughly 
oiled  or  greased.  Files  which  have  appar- 
ently become  utterly  useless  may  be  recut 
and  made  as  good  as  new  by  this  same  proc- 
ess for  the  bits  of  wood,  dirt,  soft  metals, 
etc.,  in  the  various  cuts  are  dissolved  or 
eaten  out  by  the  acid  while  the  edges  of  the 
ridges  are  thinned  down  and  sharpened  at 
the  same  time. 

Broken  hack  saws  should  be  cast  aside  as 


108  REPAIRING   HACK   SAWS. 

a  rule,  but  if  inconvenient  or  impossible  to 
secure  a  new  one  the  broken  blade  may  be 
shortened  and  a  new  hole  bored  for  the 
frame  holder  by  softening  the  broken  end  by 
heat  and  cutting  the  rough  edge  off  with 
either  a  cold  chisel  or  file  and  drilling  a  new 
hole  or  holes  with  an  ordinary  twist  drill. 
If  the  saw — beyond  the  point  to  be  softened 
— is  wrapped  in  wet  cloth  or  is  inserted  be- 
tween larger  pieces  of  cold  metal/  the  saw 
may  be  heated  red  hot  at  the  spot  desired 
without  injuring  the  temper  elsewhere. 
Sometimes  a  broken  blade  will  be  too  short 
to  fit  even  an  adjustable  frame  and  under 
such  circumstances  two  broken  saws  may  be 
joined  together  by  rivets  or  screws  until 
the  desired  length  is  obtained.  Of  course 
tli is  is  merely  a  makeshift  repair,  but  it  will 
often  prove  of  great  value  and  convenience 
in  time  of  emergency. 

Permanent  repairs  on  broken  band  saws 
or  hack  saws  may  be  made  by  brazing  or  by 
autogenous  welding  by  oxo-acetylene  meth- 
ods, and  while  it  is  always  advisable  to  have 
a  broken  saw  bra/ed  or  welded  by  a  special- 
ist in  this  work  yet  band  saws,  large  scroll 


BRAZING    BAND    SAWS.  109 

saws,  etc.,  can  be  brazed  by  any  one  with 
practice  and  proper  tools. 

To  braze  a  band  saw  the  lap  of  the  ends 
should  be  as  short  as  possible  and  never 
more  than  one  tooth.  File  the  bevel  so  teeth 
will  match  at  the  lap  and  place  enough  sil- 
ver solder  (which  comes  in  ribbon  form)  to 
cover  the  joint,  place  the  saw  in  a  brazing 
clamp  so  that  the  joint  or  lap  comes  in  the 
middle  of  the  clamp  opening,  place  the 
solder  in  the  lap,  sprinkle  it  with  borax  or 
some  brazing  flux  and  heat  a  pair  of  flat 
tongs  white  hot  and  clasp  them  firmly  on 
the  saw  at  the  joint.  By  pressing  the  hot 
tongs  together  with  another  pair  of  tongs  on 
the  points  of  the  hot  jaws  a  greater  pressure 
and  better  job  will  be  accomplished.  Hold 
the  brazing  tongs  perfectly  tight  until  they 
cool  and  turn  black  and  then  remove  them, 
file  the  joint  perfectly  smooth  and  clean  the 
solder  out  of  the  teeth.  The  materials  re- 
quired are  merely  the  solder  that  costs  $1 
per  ounce,  the  clamps  that  cost  25  cents,  and 
the  tongs.  The  tongs  should  be  carefully 
heated,  for  if  too  hot  and  sparkling  a  poor 
joint  will  result,  while  if  too  cool  the  solder 
will  not  fuse  perfectly.  Great  care  should 


110  CRACKS   IN   SAWS. 

also  be  taken  to  let  the  tongs,  clamps  and 
saw  cool  slowly,  as  water  sprinkled  upon 
them  to  hasten  cooling  will  ruin  the  result- 
ing joint.  Although  this  all  sounds  very 
simple,  yet  you  will  require  considerable 
practice  before  a  good  brazed  joint  can  be 
made,  and  it  is  best  to  practice  on  old  use- 
less broken  saws  until  proficient. 

Many  times  a  saw,  especially  circular 
saws  and  large  hand  saws,  will  show  a  small 
crack  near  or  at  the  edge.  These  cracks 
will  rapidly  increase  in  size  and  will  either 
ruin  the  saw  completely  or  will  result  in 
a  piece  of  metal  breaking  off  and  flying  into 
the  air,  frequently  with  serious  injuries  as 
a  result.  Such  cracks  may  be  remedied  and 
prevented  from  spreading  by  boring  a  small 
hole  at  the  inward  limit  of  the  crack,  Fig. 
87.  It  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  drill  such 
a  hole  either  by  hand  drill  or  drill  press  if 
the  surface  is  treated  with  a  mixture  of 
camphor  and  turpentine  and  the  drill  is  wet 
with  the  same  liquid.  If  the  crack  extends 
out  to  the  gullet  of  the  teeth  the  outer  edge 
should  be  filed  out  to  an  even,  rounded 
shape,  Fig.  88,  in  order  to  prevent  its  catch- 
ing and  chipping. 


ADAPTERS    FOR   HACK   SAWS. 


Ill 


The  universal  use  of  hand  hack  saws  has 
led  to  a  fairly  standard  length  of  saws  and 


Fig.  87.— Stopping  Crack 
from  Spreading. 


Fig.  88. — End  of  Crack 
Smoothed. 


holders  or  frames,  and  the  latter  are  now 
generally  made  adjustable  to  a  considerable 
extent  so  that  any  slight  variation  in  the 


Fig.  89.— Adapter  for  Various  Sizes  of  Hack-Saw  Blades. 

length  of  blades  may  be  taken  up.  In  very 
few  frames,  however,  is  there  more  than  a 
slight  adjustment  possible  and  where  only 
one  holder  is  available  and  various  sized 
blades  are  used,  a  simple  method  of  adapt- 


112 


FILES    FOR    SAWS. 


ing  the  blades  to  the  frames  may  be  ar- 
ranged as  shown  in  Fig.  S!).  In  this  cut, 
A  A  indicate  the  ends  of  the  frames  where 
the  saw  is  held  by  pegs  or  pins  passing 
through  holes  in  the  saw  B  B.  By  making 
an  iron  or  steel  extension  with  holes  at  vari- 
ous distances  as  at  C,  saws  of  any  length 
may  be  used  in  the  frame  as  shown  at  D  D. 
The  choice  of  a  file  for  saw  sharpening  is 
almost  as  important  as  the  selection  of  a 


Fig.  90. — Angular  Gullets.  Fig.  90a. — Round  Gullets. 

saw  itself.  Ordinary  three-cornered  and  Hat 
files  will  answer  and  thousands  of  saws  are 
annually  filed  and  filed  well  with  a  three- 


Fig.  91.— Round-Edged  File. 

cornered  file,  but  unless  care  is  taken  the 
three-cornered  file  will  often  cut  into  the 
back  of  the  next  tooth  to  the  one  being  iiled, 
making  the  gullet  very  sharp  or  angular, 
Fig.  90.  A  better  form  of  file  is  shown 
in  Fig.  91,  while  several  forms  of  files  espe 


SPECIAL   SAW    FILES. 


113 


dally  designed  for  saw  work  are  shown  in 
Fig.  92. 


Fig.  92.— Forms  of  Saw  Files. 

In  filing  band  saws  the  special  band-saw 
file,  Fig.  93,  should  be  used,   and  for  the 


Fig.  93.— Band  Saw  File. 

various  sized  teeth  the  files  should  be  of  sev- 
eral sizes.  These  files  are  three-sided  with 
round  corners  as  shown,  and  by  their  shape 
the  gullet  of  the  saw  is  rounded,  Fig.  9(M, 


114     RAKE  FOR  BAND  SAW  TEETH. 

instead  of  sharp  or  angular  as  mentioned 
above.  The  round  gullet  gives  a  far  better 
cutting  saAv  and  renders  the  latter  less 
liable  to  breakage. 

The  teeth  of  the  band  saw  should  be  filed 
straight  across  instead  of  at  an  angle,  thus 
giving  a  more  or  less  chisel-like  point,  but  a 
rake  should  be  left  similar  to  the  pitch  of 
a  plane  iron,  Fig.  94,  which  will  allow  the 
saw  teeth  to  shave 
or  plane  off  the 
material  sawed. 
Without  a  good 
rake  or  pitch  the  Fig'  94-Rake  of  Teeth' 
teeth  merely  scrape  or  scratch  out  the  ma- 
terial with  a  result  that  slower  work  is  done, 
requiring  far  more  power  and  greater  strain 
on  the  saAv. 

Much  breakage  of  saws  can  be  avoided, 
especially  in  metal  sawing,  if  two  saw 
guides  are  provided,  one  being  above  the 
table  with  an  adjustment  for  various  thick- 
nesses of  material  and  the  other  beneath  the 
table  merely  to  steady  and  guide  the  saw. 
Roth  of  these  guides  should  be  provided  with 
an  adjustment  which  will  accommodate 
various  widths  of  saws  and  the  back  of  the 


GUIDES   FOR   BAND    SAWS.  115 

saw  should  always  run  against  the  guide  at 
all  times,  thus  providing  a  firm  bearing  and 
taking  all  edge  strain  from  the  blade  save 
for  the  comparatively  short  distance  be- 
tween guides.  The  teeth  of  the  saw  should 
however  always  run  beyond  the  edge  of  the 
guide,  for  if  the  teeth  run  in  the  guide-slot 
the  points  or  set  of  the  teeth  will  either 
wear  away  or  the  guide  will  be  cut.  In  the 
former  case  the  teeth  soon  become  pin-point- 
ed and  will  not  cut,  while  in  the  latter  case 
there  will  be  too  much  play  in  the  guides 
and  the  saw  will  buckle  and  break. 

Polishing,  Cleaning  and  Grinding  Saws;  Car- 
borundum and  Carborundum  Wheels;  Home 
Made  Saw  Clamps  and  Saw  Sets;  How  to 
Fold  Band  Saws;  Tables  of  Gages;  Sizes  and 
Number  of  Teeth  of  Various  Kinds  of  Saws. — 
One  of  the  most  common  troubles  with  saws 
is  the  great  difficulty  in  keeping  them 
smooth  and  polished  and  free  from  rust 
which  not  only  prevents  their  proper  action, 
but  makes  them  very  hard  to  drive  with 
consequent  heating  and  warping. 

Under  ordinary  conditions  a  saw  may  be 
readily  kept  smooth  and  bright  by  wiping 


116  POLISHING   SAWS. 

and  oiling  after  use,  but  where  used  around 
salt  water  ordinary  oil  will  not  prevent  rust 
from  forming.  The  best  material  in  the 
world  for  use  on  saws  or  other  tools  to  pre- 
vent rust  is  cocoanut  oil.  A  piece  of  smooth 
iron  or  steel  well  coated  with  this  lubricant 
may  be  immersed  in  salt  water  for  several 
hours  and  allowed  to  dry  without  wiping 
and  will  not  rust  to  any  extent.  In  warm 
weather  the  oil,  which  is  normally  a  tallow- 
like  substance,  becomes  liquid,  and  in  order 
to  use  it  under  such  conditions  it  is  advis- 
able to  melt  it  up  with  its  own  weight  of 
hard  paraffine  or  tallow,  which  will  prevent 
it  from  becoming  too  soft  to  remain  on  the 
surface  of  the  saw  or  other  tool. 

Saws  that  have  become  rough,  rusty  or 
pitted  may  be  polished  by  rubbing  with 
emery  paper,  oil  and  emery,  powdered  car- 
borundum or  similar  abrasive  compounds 
and  finishing  with  powdered  pumice,  tripoli, 
rotten  stone,  or  rouge. 

When  polishing  a  saw  it  should  be  laid 


g  95. — Protecting  Teeth  While  Polishing. 

upon  a  perfectly  fiat  surface  with  the 


POLISHING    SAWS.  117 

protected  by  setting  them  into  a  grooved 
strip  of  wood,  Fig.  95.  Emery  cloth  will 
answer  very  well  for  cleaning,  but  powdered 
emery  or  carborundum  with  lard  oil  or 
uThree-in-One"  oil  is  better,  while  one  of 
the  various  <k  Vale-grinding  Compounds," 
prepared  in  collapsible  tubes  for  automobile 
use  is  the  best  material  of  all.  When  every 
part  of  the  blade  is  thoroughly  cleaned  and 
bright  the  emery  or  other  abrasive  should  be 
wiped  entirely  off  and  a  smooth  poll  si  KM! 
surface  imparted  by  rubbing  with  powdered 
pumice  and  oil,  followed  by  fine  rouge, 
tripoli  or  rotten  stone  and  oil. 

Never  use  any  of  the  various  prepared 
metal  polishes  as  they  invariably  contain 
strong  acids  or  alkalis  which  will  ruin  and 
pit  the  surface  of  the  metal.  When  polish- 
ing with  emery  or  carborundum  the  material 
should  be  used  by  spreading  on  a  smooth 
flat  block  or  piece  of  wood  covered  with  a 
soft  cloth  or  chamois  to  insure  an  even  sur- 
iace  and  the  movement  in  polishing  should 
be  in  a  more  or  less  rotating  or  circular 
direction  covering  the  entire  surface  of  the 
blade  and  not  rubbing  in  one  spot  at  a  time 
as  otherwise  an  uneven  surface  is  sure  to  result. 


118  CARBORUNDUM. 

The  common  emery  wheels  formerly  used 
for  gumming  or  grinding  saws  have  now 
been  almost  entirely  superceded  by  carbor- 
undum. This  material,  which  is  a  product 
of  the  electrical  furnace  and  was  acciden- 
tally  discovered  in  an  attempt  to  produce 
artificial  diamonds  or  other  precious  stones, 
is  next  in  hardness  to  the  diamond,  and  is 
also  very  cheap.  In  its  original  form,  as 
taken  from  the  furnace,  it  is  a  mass  of  beau- 
tiful crystals  of  magnificent  prismatic  col- 
ors, but  when  broken,  crushed  and  ground 
it  appears  as  a  dull,  brownish  material.  It 
is  sold  in  the  form  of  powders  of  various 
degrees  of  coarseness,  and  in  the  shape  of 
whetstones,  grinding  wheels,  etc. 

For  saw  work  this  material  is  especially 
well  adapted  for  it  cuts  rapidly  and  smooth- 
ly and  can  be  had  in  any  degree  of  fineness. 

AVlien  an  emery  wheel  arbor  or  grinding 
stand  is  not  at  hand  a  carborundum  wheel 
may  be  operated  by  placing  it  on  a  circular 
saw  mandril,  while  excellent  results  may 
also  be  obtained  by  rigging  up  an  old  scroll 
saw,  lathe  or  sewing  machine  to  operate 
carborundum  wheels.  On  large  saws,  espe- 
cially circular  saws,  carborundum  wheels 


HOME-MADE    CLAMPS   AND    SETS. 


119 


will  be  found  of  great  value,  and  many  of  the 
modern  gumming  machines  are  equipped 
with  these  w^heels. 

It  is  often  a  great  convenience  to  have 
saw  vises  or  clamps  and  saw  sets  when 
ready  made  ones  cannot  be  procured.  Such 
things  are  easily  made  from  either  wood  or 
metal,  and  there  is  no  reason  for  anyone 
going  without  such  appliances.  A  service- 
able saw  vise  can  be  made  by  merely  clamp- 
ing the  saw  between  two  strips  of  hard  wood 
or  metal  held  in  an  ordinary  bench  vise, 
Fig.  90,  while  pieces  of  soft  brass  or  zinc 
placed  over  the  ordinary  vise  jaws  will 
answer  all  purposes  at  a  pinch. 

Home  made  saw-sets  can  be  devised  by 


Fig.  96.— Wooden  Saw 
Clamp. 


Fig.  07. — Saw  Set 
from  Pliers. 


cutting   a   notch   in   one   side   of   a   pair   of 
pliers   and  inserting   a   small   tooth  in   the 


120 


COILING    BAND    SAWS. 


opposite  jaw,  Fig.  97,  but  a  punch  and  die 
made  from  a  bit  of  metal  and  a  cold  chisel 
will  also  do  good  work,  Fig.  98.  Still  an- 
other set  may  be  made  by  cutting — two  slits 
in  an  old  screw  driver,  chisel  or  similar 
tool  and  bending  them  as  shown  in  Fig.  99. 
This  tool  should  be  placed  over  the  tooth  to 
be  set  and  then  brought  back  and  down- 
ward as  shown  until  the  prongs  A  A  bear 
against  the  saw. 

Many  users  of  band  saws  have  been  puz- 
zled to  determine 
just  how  the  saws 
are  folded  or  coiled 
for  shipment,  and 
no  matter  how 
carefully  the  saw 
may  be  unpacked 
or  unrolled  it  is 
very  difficult  to  dis- 
cover how  to  roll  it 
again.  When  once 
the  secret  is  known 
it  is.  however,  a 
very  simple  matter 
to  roll  or  fold  a 
.-saw  set  from  screwdriver,  hand  saw  properly. 


Fig.  98.— Saw  Set  from  Block 
and  Chisel. 


COILING    BAND    SAWS. 


121 


In  Fig,  100  a  band  saw  is  illustrated  coiled  or 
folded  properly,  but  it  will  be  noted  that 
while  it  rests  on  the  floor  in  three  coils  the 
three  loops  do  not  lie  flat  and  in  one  plane 
as  would  be  the  case  with  a  broken  saw.  In 
Fig.  101  the  first  operation  of  folding  is 


pig<  100.— Band  Saw  Coiled. 


Fig.  101.— Coiling  Band-Saw. 

shown.  Grasp  the  saw  by  the  two  hands 
with  the  toothed  edge  from  you  and  twist 
the  smooth  edge  or  back  away  from  you  and 
downward  as  shown  by  the  arrow  A.  While 
doing  this  allow  the  lower  free  part  of  the 


122 


COILING   BAND    SAWS. 


Fig.  102.— Coiling  Band-Saw. 


Fig.  103.— Coiling  Band-Saw. 


Fig.  101. —roiling  Baml-Saw, 


COILING   BAND   SAWS.  123 

saw  to  be  clear  of  any  obstruction,  and  as 
you  twist  you  will  find  that  the  saw  tends  to 
spring  into  two  loops  or  circles  as  shown 
in  Fig.  102.  As  soon  as  the  saw  gets  into 
the  position  shown  in  Fig.  103  it  should  be 

S 


Fig.  105. — Coiling  Band-Saw. 

brought  together  as  shown  in  Fig.  104  and 
twisted  as  indicated  by  the  arrow  B.  This 
twist  results  in  its  falling  easily  into  three 
even  coils,  two  of  which  are  formed  by  the 
first  twist  (A),  which  turn  one  over  an- 


124  COILING    BAND    SAWS. 

other  as  the  third  is  formed  by  the  twist 
at  (B).  The  three  rings  or  loops  will  then 
fit  closely  together  and  will  not  untwist  or 
open  of  their  own  accord.  Fig.  105  illus- 
trates the  operation  practically  complete 


Fig.  106.— Coiling  Band-Saw. 

with  two  coils  overlapping  and  teeth  upward 
while  the  last  loop  formed  has  the  teeth 
downward  and  remains  to  be  twisted  until 
the  teeth  on  the  last  coil  turn  uppermost, 
and  the  loop  may  then  be  dropped  into  ad- 


COILING   BAND    SAWS.  125 

justment  with  the  first  two.  Fig.  106  shows 
the  coiled  saw  raised  up  to  show  the  manner 
in  which  the  three  coils  lie  together. 

Saws  coiled  in  this  way  are  much  more 
convenient  and  less  liable  to  injury  or  break- 
age than  when  kept  unrolled,  and  whereas 
a  broken  saw  can  be  coiled  by  anyone  an 
endless  saw  is  impossible  to  roll,  and  must 
be  folded  as  illustrated. 


TABLES  OF  SIZES,  GAGES  AND  NUM- 
BER OF  TEETH  OF  VARIOUS  SAWS 

DIAMETER  AND  THICKNESS  OF  CIRCULAR    SAWS 


Diam. 

Thickness 
(Gage) 

Diam. 

Thickness 

(Gage) 

4  in. 

.19 

36  in. 

.9 

5 

.19 

38  " 

.9 

6 

.18 

40  " 

.9 

7 

.18 

42  " 

.8 

8 

.18 

.  44  " 

.8 

9 

.17 

46  " 

.8 

10 

.16 

48  " 

.8 

12 

.15 

50  " 

.7 

14 

.15 

52  " 

.7 

16 

.14 

54  " 

.7 

18 

.13 

56  " 

.7 

20 

.13 

58  " 

.7 

22 

.12 

60  " 

.6 

24 

.11 

62  " 

.6 

26 

.11 

64  " 

.6 

28 

.10 

66  " 

.6 

30 

.10 

68  " 

.5 

32 

.10 

70  " 

.5 

34 

.09 

72  " 

.5 

126 


TABLES    OF    CIRCULAR-SAW    TEETH.       127 


COLUMBIAN 


SUPERIOR 


Inserted  Tooth  Circular 

Saws 
Any  Gage  to  8 


Inserted  Tooth  Circular 

Saws 
Any  Gage  to  8 


Diam. 

Teeth 

Diam. 

Teeth 

40  in. 

38 

40  in. 

22 

42  " 

40 

42 

24 

44  " 

42 

44 

24 

46  " 

44 

46 

26 

48  " 

46 

48 

26 

50  " 

48 

50 

28 

52  " 

50 

52 

28 

54  " 

52 

54 

30 

56  " 

54 

56 

30 

58  " 

56 

58 

32 

60  " 

58 

60 

34 

62  " 

60 

62 

34 

64  " 

62 

64 

36 

66  " 

64 

66 

40 

68  " 

66 

68 

44 

70  " 

68 

70 

44 

72  " 

70 

72 

46 

74  " 

72 

74 

50 

128 


DIMENSIONS    OF    BAND    SAWS. 


BAND    SAWS 


Width 

Gage 

Width 

Gage 

^in. 

18 

3   in. 

17 

Ys  ' 

18 

3^  " 

17 

y*  ' 

18 

4   " 

16 

Ys  ' 

21 

4^  " 

16 

*A  ' 

21 

5   " 

16 

%  ' 

21 

5^  " 

16 

i  < 

21 

6   " 

16 

ly*  ' 

20 

7   " 

16 

i^  ' 

20 

8   " 

14  to  16 

m  ' 

20 

9   " 

14  "  16 

\v>  i 

20 

10   " 

14  "  16 

m  ' 

19 

11   " 

12  "  14 

2   l 

19 

12   " 

12  u  14 

VA  ' 

19 

14   " 

12 

21A  ' 

19 

SCROLL   SAW    BLADES 


Length  ......................        8  to  24  in. 

Width  .......................  1-32  to     2" 

Gage  ........................      13  to  24  " 


HACK    SAW    DIMENSIONS. 


129 


LUMBERMEN  S    CROSS-CUT    SAWS 


Length.  . 
Ga^e 

4  to    8  ft. 

14  to  19  " 

JK    SAW    BLADES 

IIA( 

Length 

Gage 

Width               Teeth 

6  in. 

7  " 

24 

24 

Yi  in.      Standard  14  teeth 
to  inch. 

8  " 
9  " 

24 
24 

For  tubing,  thin 
y>  "            metal     and 

10  " 
11  " 

Y±  "            brass,  23  teeth 
24            [V  li            to  inch. 

12  " 

12  " 

24 
21 

;•',;   ll        Standard  14  teeth 
to  inch. 

12  " 
12  " 
14  " 
14  " 

21 
18 
21 

18 

For    thin    metal, 
%  "            tubinsr,    brass, 
52  "            etc.,    23   teeth 
^  "            to  inch. 

17  " 

21 

M  " 

17  " 

21 

1 

17  " 
17  " 

18 
18 

%  " 
1       " 

18  " 

18 

1       " 

19  " 

18 

1       (; 

20  " 

18 

1 

21  " 

18 

1 

INDEX 


A. 

PAGE 

Adapters  for  Hack-saws Ill 

Amount  of  Set 33 

Angle  and  Rake 16 

B. 

Bent  Set;  Operation  of  Bending  for  Set 24 

Brazing  Band  Saws 78,  109 

Butcher's  Saws 104 

C. 

Carborundum 118 

Care  of  Hand  Saws 94 

Choice  of  a  Hand  Saw 68 

Choice  of  a  Saw 36 

( 'lioice  of  Teeth  for  Special  Purposes 19 

Circu]ar  Saw  Teeth 50 

ification  of  Saws. ". 9 

( leaner  (Juagc 61 

Coiling  Hand  Saws 120 

Comparison  of  Circular  Saw  Teeth (>X,  (>9 

("racks  in  Saws 110 

Cross-cuts;    Hand,  T \vo-man,  Circular 11 

Crotch  Swages 62 

130 


INDEX.  131 

E.  PAGE 

Elements  of  the  Teeth 12 

Emery  Wheel  vs.  Grindstone 72 

F. 

Files 41 

Files  for  Saws 112 

Filing  Clamps 39 

Filing  Hand  Saws 100 

Frequency  of  Filing 36 

G. 

Guides  for  Band  Saws 115 

Gullet  or  Throat 34 

Gummers 01 

Gumming  or  Gulleting 21 

H. 

Hand  vs.  Machine  Filing  and  Setting 37 

Hardness  of  Emery  Wheels 77 

Hints  and  Wrinkles 50 

Home-Made  Clamps  and  Sets 119 

Horse  Power  to  Run  Circular  Saws 92 

How  To  Hammer  Circular  Saws 83 

How  To  Use  Emery  Wheels 73 

I. 

Introduction 7 

J 

Jointing  Hand  Saws 98 


132  INDEX. 

K.  PAGE 

Kind  of  Set 22 

L. 

Lubricating  Saws 100 

M. 

Metal  Working  Saws 105 

Mixter's  Rotary 22 

O. 

Operation  of  Filing 45 

P. 

Polishing  Saws 116 

Preface .  3 

R. 

Rake  for  Band  Saw  Teeth 114 

Repairing  Hack  Saws 10S 

Reset  ling  Hack  Saws 107 

Reversible  Blade  (in turner 22 

Rip-Saws,  Hand,  Sash,  Circular,  and  Band 10 

S. 

Saw  Clamp 05 

Saw  Sets 0(> 

Setting  Saws 07 

Side  Angle  or  Fleam IS 

Side  Filing 00 

Side  Jointing •')"> 


INDEX.  133 

PAGE 

Sizes  and  Shapes  of  Emery  Wheels 74 

Spacing  of  Teeth 15 

Special  Saw  Files 113 

Speed  of  Circular  Saws 79 

Spread  Set;  Swaging 27 

Spring  vs.  Spread  Set 60 

Straightening  Saws 102 

Styles  of  Circular  Saw  Teeth 57 

T. 

Table  Dimensions  of  Band  Saws 12S 

Table  Hack-Saw  Dimensions 129 

Table  of  Circular-Saw  Teeth 127 

Table-Teeth  of  Various  Saws 127 

Tooth  Length 14 

Top  Jointing ;;5 

To  Straighten  a  Circular  Saw 07 


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INDEX  OF  SUBJECTS 

Brazing  and  Soldering 3 

Cams 1 1 

Charts 3 

Chemistry , 4 

Civil  Engineering 4 

Coke 4 

Compressed  Air 4 

Concrete 5 

Dictionaries 5 

Dies— Metal  Work 6 

Drawing  -Sketching  Paper 6 

Electricity 7 

Enameling 9 

Factory  Management,  etc 9 

Fuel 10 

Gas  Engines  and  Gas 10 

Gearing  and  Cams 1 1 

Hydraulics 1 1 

Ice  and  Refrigeration 1 1 

Inventions  —Patents 12 

Lathe  Practice 12 

Liquid  Air 12 

Locomotive  Engineering 12 

Machine   Shop   Practice 14 

Manual  Training 17 

Marine  Engineering 17 

Metal  Work-Dies 6 

Mining 17 

Miscellaneous 18 

Patents  and  Inventions 12 

Pattern  Making 18 

Perfumery 18 

Plumbing 19 

Receipt  Book 24 

Refrigeration  and  Ice 1 1 

Rubber 19 

Saws 20 

Screw  Cutting 20 

Sheet  Metal  Work 20 

Soldering 3 

Strain   Engineering 20 

Steam  I -1  eating  and  Ventilation 22 

Steam  Pipes 22 

Steel 22 

Watch  Making 23 

Wireless  Telephones 23 


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BRAZING    AND    SOLDERING 


BRAZING  AND  SOLDERINfc.  By  JAMES  F.  HOB  ART. 
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4th  edition.  25  cents 


CHARTS 


BATTLESHIP  CHART.  An  engraving  which  shows  the 
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BOX  CAR  CHART.  A  chart  showing  the  anatomy  of  a  box 
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given  in  a  reference  list.  20  cents 

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proper  name  given  in  a  reference  list.  20  cents 

TRACTIVE  POWER  CHART.  A  chart  whereby  you  can 
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CHEMISTRY 

HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  BOOK  OF 
RECEIPTS,  FORMULAS  AND  PROCESSES.  Edited  by 
GARDNER  D.  Hiscox.  The  most  valuable  Techno-chemical 
Receipt  Book  published,  including  over  10,000  selected  scientific 
chemical,  technological,  and  practical  receipts  and  processes. 
See  page  24  for  full  description  of  this  book.  $3.00 

CIVIL  ENGINEERING 

HENLEY'S  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  PRACTICAL  EN- 
GINEERING AND  ALLIED  TRADES.  Edited  by  JOSEPH 
G.  HORNER,  A.M.I.,  M.E.  This  set  of  five  volumes  contains 
about  2,500  pages  with  thousands  of  illustrations,  including  dia- 
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COKE 


COKE— MODERN  COKING   PRACTICE;  INCLUDING 
THE    ANALYSIS    OF     MATERIALS     AND    PRODUCTS. 

By  T.  H.  BYROM,  Fellow  of  the  Institute  of  Chemistry,  Fellow 
of  The  Chemical  Society,  etc.,  and  J.  E.  CHRISTOPHER,  Member 
of  the  Society  of  Chemical  Industry,  etc.  A  handbook  for 
those  engaged  in  Coke  manufacture  and  the  recovery  of  By- 
products. Fully  illustrated  with  folding  plates. 

The  subject  of  Coke  Manufacture  is  of  rapidly  increasing  in- 
terest and  significance,  embracing  as  it  does  the  recovery  of 
valuable  by-products  in  which  scientific  control  is  of  the  first 
"importance.  It  has  been  the  aim  of  the  authors,  in  preparing 
«his  book,  to  produce  one  which  shall  be  of  use  and  benefit  to 
those  who  are  associated  with,  or  interested  in,  the  modern  de- 
velopments of  the  industry. 

Contents:  Chap.  I.  Introductory.  Chap.  II.  General  Classi- 
fication of  Fuels.  Chap.  III.  Coal  Washing.  Chap.  IV.  The 
Sampling  and  Valuation  of  Coal,  Coke,  etc.  Chap.  V.  The 
Calorific  Power  of  Coal  and  Coke.  Chap.  VI.  Coke  Ovens. 
Chap.  VII.  Coke  Ovens,  continued.  Chap.  VIII.  Coke  Ovens, 
continued.  Chap.  IX.  Charging  and  Discharging  of  Coke  Ovens. 
Chap.  X.  Cooling  and  Condensing  Plant.  Chap.  XI.  Gas  Ex- 
hausters. Chap.  XII.  Composition  and  Analysis  of  Ammoniacal 
Liquor.  Chap.  XIII.  Working  up  of  Ammoniacal  Liquor. 
Chap.  XIV.  Treatment  of  Waste  Gases  from  Sulphate  Plants. 
Chap.  XV.  Valuation  of  Ammonium  Sulphate.  Chap.  XVI. 
Direct  Recovery  of  Ammonia  from  Coke  Oven  Gases.  Chap. 
XVII.  Surplus  Gas  from  Coke  Oven.  Useful  Tables.  Very 
fully  illustrated.  83.50  net 

COMPRESSED    AIR 


COMPRESSED  AIR  IN  ALL  ITS  APPLICATIONS.     By 

GARDNER  D.  Hiscox.  This  is  the  most  complete  book  on  the 
subject  of  Air  that  has  ever  been  issued,  and  its  thirty-five 
chapters  include  about  every  phase  of  the  subject  one  can  think 
of.  It  may  be  called  an  encyclopedia  of  compressed  air.  It  is 
written  by  an  expert,  who,  in  its  665  pages,  has  dealt  with  the 
subject  in  a  comprehensive  manner,  no  phase  of  it  being  omitted. 
Over  500  illustrations,  5th  Edition,  revised  and  enlarged. 
Cloth  bound;  S5.OO,  Half  morocco,  *6.50 


CONCRETE 

ORNAMENTAL  CONCRETE  WITHOUT  MOLDS,     By  A.  A. 

HOUGHTON.  The  process  for  making  ornamental  concrete  with- 
out molds,  has  lonj  been  held  as  a  secret  and  now,  for  the  first 
time,  this  process  is  given  to  the  public.  The  book  reveals  the 
secret  and  is  the  only  book  published  which  explains  a  simple, 
practical  method  whereby  the  concrete  worker  is  enabled,  by 
employing  wood  and  metal  templates  of  different  designs,  to 
mold  or  model  in  concrete  any  Cornice,  Archivolt,  Column, 
Pedestal,  Base  Cap,  Urn  or  Pier  in  a  monolithic  form — right 
upon  the  job.  These  may  be  molded  in  units  or  blocks,  and 
then  built  up  to  suit  the  specifications  demanded.  This  work 
is  fully  illustrated,  with  detailed  engravings.  $2.00 

POPULAR  HAND  BOOK  FOR  CEMENT  AND  CON- 
CRETE USERS,  By  MYRON  H.  LEWIS,  C.E.  This  is  a  con- 
cise treatise  of  the  principles  and  methods  employed  in  the 
manufacture  and  use  of  cement  in  all  classes  of  modern  works. 
The  author  has  brought  together  in  this  work,  all  the  salient 
matter  of  interest  to  the  user  of  concrete  and  its  many  diversified 
products.  The  matter  is  presented  in  logical  and  systematic 
order,  clearly  written,  fully  illustrated  and  free  from  involved 
mathematics.  Everything  of  value  to  the  concrete  user  is  given. 
Among  the  chapters  contained  in  the  book  are:  I.  Historical 
Development  of  the  Uses  of  Cement  and  Concrete.  II.  Glossary 
of  Terms  employed  in  Cement  and  Concrete  work.  III.  Kinds 
of  Cement  employed  in  Construction.  IV.  Limes,  Ordinary  and 
Hydraulic.  V.  Lime  Plasters.  VI.  Natural  Cements.  VII. 
Portland  Cements.  VIII.  Inspection  and  Testing.  IX.  Adul- 
teration; or  Foreign  Substances  in  Cement.  X.  Sand,  Gravel 
and  Broken  Stone.  XI.  Mortar.  XII.  Grout.  XIII.  Con- 
crete (Plain).  XIV.  Concrete  (Reinforced).  XV.  Methods 
and  Kinds  of  Reinforcements.  XVI.  Forms  for  Plain  and  Re- 
inforced Concrete.  XVII.  Concrete  Blocks.  XVIII.  Arti- 
ficial Stone.  XIX.  Concrete  Tiles.  XX.  Concrete  Pipes  and 
Conduits.  XXI.  Concrete  Piles.  XXII.  Concrete  Buildings. 
XXIII.  Concrete  in  Water  Works.  XXIV.  Concrete  in  Sewer 
Works.  XXV.  Concrete  in  Highway  Construction.  XXVI. 
Concrete  Retaining  Walls.  XXVII.  Concrete  Arches  and 
Abutments.  XXVIII.  Concrete  in  Subway  and  Tunnels. 
XXIX.  Concrete  in  Bridge  Work.  XXX.  Concrete  in  Docks 
and  Wharves.  XXXI.  Concrete  Construction  under  Water. 
XXXII.  Concrete  on  the  Farm.  XXXIII.  Concrete  Chimneys. 
XXXIV.  Concrete  for  Ornamentation.  XXXV.  Concrete 
Mausoleums  and  Miscellaneous  Uses.  XXXVI.  Inspection  for 
Concrete  Work.  XXXVII.  Waterproofing  Concrete  Work. 
XXXVIII.  Coloring  and  Painting  Concrete  Work.  XXXIX. 
Method  of  Finishing  Concrete  Surfaces.  XL.  Specifications  and 
Estimates  for  Concrete  Work. 

DICTIONARIES 


>Ji  wj^l  c.->3     »JJL      U11175     Diction     V-'J.     aV^lCli^C.  VxV 

venient.     682  pages — 393  illustrations. 


DIES— METAL   WORK 

DIES,  THEIR  CONSTRUCTION  AND  USE  FOR  THE 
MODERN  WORKING  OF  SHEET  METALS.  By  J.  V 

WOOD  WORTH.  A  new  book  by  a  practical  man,  for  those  who 
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DRAWING— SKETCHING   PAPER 

LINEAR  PERSPECTIVE  SELF-TAUGHT.  By  HERMAN 
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ELECTRICITY 


ARITHMETIC  OF  ELECTRICITY.  By  Prof.  T.  O'CoNOR 
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DYNAMO  BUILDING  FOR  AMATEURS.  OR  HOW  TO 
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Dimensioned  working  drawings  are  given  for  each  piece  of 
machine  work  and  each  operation  is  clearly  described. 

Thi 


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ELECTRIC  FlTRNACES  AND  THEIR  INDUSTRIAL 
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ELECTRIC  LIGHTING  AND  HEATING  POCKET 
BOOK.  By  SYDNEY  F.  WALKER.  This  book  puts  in  conven- 
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ELECTRIC  TOY  MAKING,  DYNAMO  BUILDING,  AND 
ELECTRIC  MOTOR  CONSTRUCTION.  This  work  treats 
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ELECTRIC  WIRING,  DIAGRAMS  AND  SWITCH- 
BOARDS. By  NEWTON  HARRISON.  This  is  the  only  complete 
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ELECTRICIAN'S  HANDY  BOOK.  By  PROF.  T.  O'CoNOR 
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ELECTRICITY  IN  FACTORIES  AND  WORKSHOPS, 
ITS  COST  AND  CONVENIENCE.  By  ARTHUR  P.  HASLAM. 
A  practical  book  for  power  producers  and  power  users  showing 
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ELECTRICITY  SIMPLIFIED.  By  PROF.  T.  O'CoNOR 
SLOANE.  The  object  of  "Electricity  Simplified"  is  to  make  the 
subject  as  plain  as  possible  and  to  show  what  the  modern  con- 
ception of  electricity  is;  to  show  how  two  plates  of  different 
metals  immersed  in  acid  can  send  a  message  around  the  globe; 
to  explain  how  a  bundle  of  copper  wire  rotated  by  a  steam  engine 
can  be  the  agent  in  lighting  our  streets,  to  tell  what  the  volt,  ohm 
and  ampere  are,  and  what  high  and  low  tension  mean;  and  to 
answer  the  questions  that  perpetually  arise  in  the  mind  in  this 
age  of  electricity.  172  pages.  Illustrated.  SI. 00 

HOW    TO  BECOME    A  SUCCESSFUL  ELECTRICIAN. 

By  PROF.  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE.  An  interesting  book  from  cover 
to  cover.  Telling  in  simplest  language  the  surest  and  easiest  way 
to  become  a  successful  electrician.  The  studies  to  be  followed, 
methods  of  work,  field  of  operation  and  the  requirements  of  the 
successful  electrician  are  pointed  out  and  fully  explained. 
202  pages.  Illustrated.  SI. 00 

MANAGEMENT  OF  DYNAMOS.  By  LUMMIS-PATER- 
SON.  A  handbook  of  theory  and  practice.  This  work  is  arranged 
in  three  parts.  The  first  part  covers  the  elementary  theory  of 
the  dynamo.  The  second  part,  the  construction  and  action  of 
the  different  classes  of  dynamos  in  common  use  are  described; 
while  the  third  part  relates  to  such  matters  as  affect  the  prac- 
tical management  and  working  of  dynamos  and  motors.  292 
pages,  117  illustrations.  81.50 

STANDARD  ELECTRICAL  DICTIONARY.  By  Prof.  T. 
O'CoNOR  SLOANE.  A  practical  handbook  of  reference  contain- 
ing definitions  of  about  5,000  distinct  words,  terms  and  phrases. 
The  definitions  are  terse  and  concise  and  include  every  term 
used  in  electrical  science.  682  pages,  393  illustrations.  $3.00 

8 


TELEPHONE  CONSTRUCTION,  INSTALLATION. 
WIRING,  OPERATION  AND  MAINTENANCE.  By  W.  H. 

RADCLIFFE  and  H.  C.  GUSHING.  This  book  gives  the  principles 
of  construction  and  operation  of  both  the  Bell  and  Independent 
instruments;  approved  methods  of  installing  and  wiring  them; 
the  means  of  protecting  them  from  lightning  and  abnormal  cur- 
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Line  wiring  and  the  wiring  and  operation  of  special  telephone 
systems  are  also  treated.  180  pages,  125  illustrations.  Sl.OO 

WIRING  A  HOUSE.  By  HERBERT  PRATT.  Shows  a  house 
already  built;  tells  just  how  to  start  about  wiring  it.  Where  to 
begin;  what  wire  to  use;  how  to  run  it  according  to  insurance 
rules,  in  fact  just  the  information  you  need.  Directions  apply 
equally  to  a  shop.  Fourth  edition.  25  cents 

WIRELESS  TELEPHONES  AND  HOW  THEY  WORK. 

By  JAMES  ERSKINE-MURRAY.  This  work  is  free  from  elaborate 
details  and  aims  at  giving  a  clear  survey  of  the  way  in  which 
Wireless  Telephones  work.  It  is  intended  for  amateur  workers 
and  for  those  whose  knowledge  of  Electricity  is  slight.  Chap- 
ters contained:  How  We  Hear — Historical — The  Conversion  of 
Sound  into  Electric  Waves  — Wireless  Transmission — The  Pro- 
duction of  Alternating  Currents  of  High  Frequency — How  the 
Electric  Waves  are  Radiated  and  Received — The  Receiving 
Instruments — Detectors — Achievements  and  Expectations — 
jlossary  of  Technical  Work.  Cloth.  81.00 


ENAMELING 


FACTORY  MANAGEMENT,  ETC. 


HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  RECEIPT  BOOK. 

by  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox.  A  work  of  10,000  practical 
_  ceipts,  including  enameling  receipts  for  hollow  ware,  for 
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ough and  practical.  See  page  24  for  full  description  of  this  book. 

I  S3. 00 

MODERN  MACHINE  SHOP  CONSTRUCTION,  EQUIP- 
NT  AND  MANAGEMENT.  By  O.  E.  PERRIGO,  M.E.  A 
k  designed  for  the  practical  and  every-day  use  of  the  Archi- 
who  designs,  the  Manufacturers  who  build,  the  Engineers 
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FUEL 
COMBUSTION  OF  COAL  AND  THE  PREVENTIO 

OF  SMOKE.  By  WM.  M.  BARR.  To  be  a  success  a  firema 
must  be  "Light  on  Coal."  He  must  keep  his  fire  in  good  COT 
dition,  and  prevent,  as  far  as  possible,  the  smoke  nuisana 
To  do  this,  he  should  know  how  coal  burns,  how  smoke  is  forme 
and  the  proper  burning  of  fuel  to  obtain  the  best  results.  H 
can  learn  this,  and  more  too,  from  Barr's  "Combustion  of  Coal. 
It  is  an  absolute  authority  on  all  questions  relating  to  the  Firin 
of  a  Locomotive.  Nearly  350  pages,  fully  illustrated.  $!.(] 

SMOKE    PREVENTION  AND  FUEL  ECONOMY.      B 

BOOTH  and  KERSHAW.  As  the  title  indicates,  this  book  of  19 
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tarian  aspects  of  the  question.  $2.5 

GAS   ENGINES    AND    GAS 


CHEMISTRY  OF    GAS  MANUFACTURE.       By  H.    M 

ROYLES.  A  practical  treatise  for  the  use  of  gas  engineers,  ga 
managers  and  students.  Including  among  its  contents — Prepa 
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GAS  ENGINE  CONSTRUCTION,  Or  How  to  Build  a  Half 
Horse-power  Gas  Engine.  By  PARSELL  and  WEED.  A  prac 
tical  treatise  describing  the  theory  and  principles  of  the  action  o 
gas  engines  of  various  types,  and  the  design  and  construction  of  ; 
half-horse-power  gas  engine,  with  illustrations  of  the  work  ii 
actual  progress,  together  with  dimensioned  working  drawings  giv 
ing  clearly  the  sizes  of  the  various  details.  300  pages.  $2.5< 

GAS,  GASOLINE,  AND  OIL  ENGINES.  By  GARDNER  D 

Hiscox.  Just  issued,  i8th  revised  and  enlarged  edition.  Kvcr; 
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engines  as  designed  and  manufactured  in  the  United  States 
Explosive  motors  for  stationary,  marine  and  vehicle  power  an 
fully  treated,  together  with  illustrations  of  their  parts  and  tabu 
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Ignition  by  Induction  Coil  and  Jump  Sparks  are  fully  explainec 
and  illustrated,  including  valuable  information  on  the  testing  fo: 
economy  and  power  and  the  erection  of  power  plants. 

The  special  information  on  PRODUCER  and  SUCTION  GASES  in 
eluded  cannot  fail  to  prove  of  value  to  all  interested  in  the  gen 
eration  of  producer  gas  and  its  utilization  in  gas  engines. 

The  rules  and  regulations  of  the  Board  of  Fire  Underwriter: 
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power.  A  list  of  United  States  Patents  issued  on  Gas,  Gasolin* 
and  Oil  Engines  and  their  adjuncts  from  1875  to  date  is  included 
484  pages,  410  engravings.  83.  SO  nel 


MODERN  GAS  ENGINES  AN1>  PRODUCER  GAS 
PLANTS.  By  R.  E.  MATHCT,  M.E.  A  practical  treatise  of 
320  pages,  fully  illustrated  by  175  detailed  illustrations,  setting 
forth  the  principles  of  gas  engines  and  producer  design,  the  selec- 
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engines  and  producer-gas  plants,  with  a  chapter  on  volatile 
hydrocarbon  and  oil  engines.  This  book  has  been  endorsed  by 
Dugal  Clerk  as  a  most  usetul  work  for  all  interested,  in  Gas  Engine 
installation  and  Producer  Gas.  82.50 


GEARING    AND    CA  IS 

BEVEL.  GEAR  TABLES.  By  D.  Ac.  ENGSTROM.  No  one 
who  has  to  do  with  bevel  gears  in  any  way  should  be  without 
this  book.  The  designer  and  draftsman  will  find  it  a  great  con- 
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the  teeth,  it  is  invaluable,  as  all  needed  dimensions  are  given 
and  no  fancy  figuring  need  be  done.  $1.00 

CHANGE  GEAR  DEVICES.  By  OSCAR  E.  PERRIGO.  A 
book  for  every  designer,  draftsman  and  mechanic  who  is  inter- 
ested in  feed  changes  for  any  kind  of  machines.  This  shows  what 
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that  you  need.  Saves  hunting  through  patent  records  and  rein- 
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DRAFTING  OF  CAMS.  By  Louis  ROUILLION.  The 
laying  out  of  cams  is  a  serious  problem  unless  you  know  how  to 
go  at  it  right.  This  puts  you  on  the  right  road  for  practically 
any  kind  of  cam  you  are  likely  to  run  up  against.  25  cents 

HYDRAULICS 


HYDRAULIC  ENGINEERING.     By  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox. 

^  treatise  on  the  properties,  power,  and  resources  of  water  for  all 

purposes.     Including  the  measurement  of  streams;  the  flow  of 

water  in  pipes  or  conduits;    the  horse-power  of  falling  water; 

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ciprocating,  and  air-lift  pumps.     With  300  figures  and  dia- 

ams  and  36  practical  tables.    320  pages.  84.00 


ICE    AND    REFRIGERATION 


POCKET  BOOK  OF  REFRIGERATION  AND  ICE  MAK- 

By  A.  J.  WALLIS-TAYLOR.     This  is  one  of  the  latest  and 
.ost  comprehensive  reference  books  published  on  the  subject 
E  refrigeration  and  cold  storage.      It  explains  the  properties  and 
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ment of  refrigerating  machinery  and  the  construction  and  insula- 
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legrees    of    cold;    freezing    mixtures    and    non-freezing    brines, 
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operation  of  a  refrigerating  plant.  81.50 

II 


INVENTIONS— PATENTb 

INVENTOR'S  MANUAL,  HOW  TO  MAKE  A  PATENT 
PAY.  This  is  a  book  designed  as  a  guide  to  inventors  in  per- 
fecting: their  inventions,  taking  out  their  patents,  and  disposing 
of  them.  It  is  not  in  any  sense  a  Patent  Solicitor's  Circular, 
nor  a  latent  Broker's  Advertisement.  No  advertisements  of  any 
description  appear  in  the  work.  It  is  a  book  containing  a  quartei 
of  a  century's  experience  of  a  successful  inventor,  together  with 
notes  based  upon  the  experience  of  many  other  inventors.  SI. 00 

LATHE  PRACTICE 


MODERN  AMERICAN  LATHE  PRACTICE.    By  OSCAR 

E.  PERRIGO.  An  up-to-date  book  on  American  Lathe  Work, 
describing  and  illustrating  the  very  latest  practice  in  lathe  and 
boring-mill  operations,  as  well  as  the  construction  of  and  latest 
developments  in  the  manufacture  of  these  important  classes  of 
machine  tools.  300  pages,  fully  illustrated.  S2.5O 

PRACTICAL  METAL  TURNING.  By  JOSEPH  G.  HORNER. 
A  work  of  404  pages,  fully  illustrated,  covering  in  a  comprehen- 
sive manner  the  modern  practice  of  machining  metal  parts  in 
the  lathe,  including  the  regular  engine  lathe,  its  essential  design, 
its  uses,  its  tools,  its  attachments,  and  the  manner  of  holding  the 
work  and  performing  the  operations.  The  modernized  engine 
lathe,  its  methods,  tools,  and  great  range  of  accurate  work.  The 
Turret  Lathe,  its  tools,  accessories  and  methods  of  performing 
its  functions.  Chapters  on  special  work,  grinding,  tool  holders, 
speeds,  feeds,  modern  tool  steels,  etc.,  etc.  $3.50 

TURNING  AND  BORING  TAPERS.  By  FRED  H.  COL- 
VIN.  There  are  two  ways  to  turn  tapers;  the  right  way  and 
one  other.  This  treatise  has  to  do  with  the  right  way;  it  tells 
you  how  to  start  the  work  properly,  how  to  set  the  lathe,  what 
tools  to  use  and  how  to  use  them,  and  forty  and  one  other  little 
things  that  you  should  know.  Fourth  edition.  25  cents 

LIQUID  AIR 

M^IQUID  AIR  AND  THE  LIQUEFACTION  OF  GASES. 
By  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE.  Theory,  history,  biography,  practical 
applications,  manufacture.  .365  pages.  Illustrated.  $2.00 

LOCOMOTIVE   ENGINEERING 


AIR-BRAKE  CATECHISM.  By  ROBERT  H.  BLACKALL. 
This  book  is  a  standard  text  book.  It  covers  the  Westinghouse 
Air-Brake  Equipment,  including  the  No.  5  and  the  No.  6  E  T 
Locomotive  Brake  Equipment;  the  K  (Quick-Service)  Triple 
Valve  for  Freight  Service;  and  the  Cross-Compound  Pump. 
The  operation  of  all  parts  of  the  apparatus  is  explained  in  detail, 
ami  a  practical  way  of  finding  their  peculiarities  and  defects, 
with  a  proper  rernedv,  is  given.  It  contains  2,000  questions  with 
their  answers,  which  will  enable  any  -ailroad  man  to  pass  any 
examination  on  the  subject  of  Air  Brakes.  Endorsed  and  used 
by  air-brake  instructors  and  examiners  on  nearly  every  rail- 
road in  the  United  States.  236  Edition.  380  pages,  fully 
illustrated  with  folding  plates  ",nd  diagrams.  92.00 


AMERICAN  COMPOUND  LOCOMOTIVES.  By  FRED 
H.  COLVIN.  The  most  complete  book  on  compounds  published. 
Shows  all  types,  including  the  balanced  compound.  Makes 
everything  clear  by  many  illustrations,  and  shows  valve  setting, 
breakdowns  and  repairs.  142  pages.  $1.00 

APPLICATION  OF  HIGHLY  SUPERHEATED  STEAM 
TO  LOCOMOTIVES.  By  ROBERT  GARBE.  A  practical  book. 
Contains  special  chapters  on  Generation  of  Highly  Superheated 
Steam;  Superheated  Steam  and  the  Two-Cylinder  Simple 
Engine;  Compounding  and  Superheating;  Designs  of  Locomotive 
Superheaters;  Constructive  Details  of  Locomotives  using  Highly 
Superheated  Steam;  Experimental  and  Working  Results.  Illus- 
trated with  folding  plates  and  tables.  S3. 50 

COMBUSTION  OF  COAL  AND  THE  PREVENTION 
OF  SMOKE.  By  WM.  M.  BARR.  To  be  a  success  a  fireman 
must  be  "  Light  on  Coal."  He  must  keep  his  fire  in  good  con- 
dition, and  prevent  as  far  as  possible,  the  smoke  nuisance. 
To  do  this,  he  should  know  how  coal  burns,  how  smoke  is  formed 
and  the  proper  burning  of  fuel  to  obtain  the  best  results.  *  He 
can  learn  this,  and  more  too,  from  Barr's  "Combination  of  Coal." 
It  is  an  absolute  authority  on  all  questions  relating  to  the  Firing 
of  a  Locomotive.  Nearly  350  pages,  fully  illustrated.  $1.00 

LINK  MOTIONS,  VALVES  AND  VALVE  SETTING.   By 

FRED  H.  COLVIX,  Associate  Editor  of  "American  Machinist." 
A  handy  book  that  clears  up  the  mysteries  of  valve  setting. 
Shows  the  different  valve  gears  in  use,  how  they  work,  and  why. 
Piston  and  slide  valves  of  different  types  are  illustrated  and 
explained.  A  book  that  every  railroad  man  in  the  motive- 
>wer  department  ought  to  have.  Fully  illustrated.  50  cents. 

LOCOMOTIVE  BOILER  CONSTRUCTION.  By  FRANK 
KLEIXHANS.  The  only  book  showing  how  locomotive 
ilers  are  built  in  modern  shops.  Shows  all  types  of  boilers 
used;  gives  details  of  construction;  practical  facts,  such  as 
life  of  riveting  punches  and  dies,  work  done  per  day,  allowance 
for  bending  and  flanging  sheets  and  other  data  that  means  dol- 
lars to  any  railroad  man.  421  pages,  334  illustrations.  Six 
folding  plates.  $3.00 

LOCOMOTIVE  BREAKDOWNS  AND  THEIR  REM- 
EDIES. By  GEO.  L.  FOWLER.  Revised  by  Wm.  W.  Wood, 
Air-Brake  Instructor.  Just  issued  1910  Revised  pocket  edition. 
It  is  put  of  the  question  to  try  and  tell  you  about  every  subject 
that  is  covered  in  this  pocket  edition  of  Locomotive  Breakdowns. 
Just  imagine  all  the  common  troubles  that  an  engineer  may  ex- 
pect to  happen  some  time,  and  then  add  all  of  the  unexpected 
ones,  troubles  that  could  occur,  but  that  you  had  never  thought 
about,  and  you  will  find  that  they  are  all  treated  with  the  very 
best  methods  of  repair.  Walschaert  Locomotive  Valve  Gear 
Troubles,  Electric  Headlight  Troubles,  as  well  as  Questions  and 
Answers  on  the  Air  Brake  are  all  included.  294  pages.  Fully 
illustrated.  $1.00 

LOCOMOTIVE  CATECHISM.  By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 
27th  revised  and  enlarged  edition.  This  may  well  be  called  an 
encyclopedia  of  the  locomotive.  Contains  over  4,000  examina- 
tion questions  with  their  answers,  including  among  them  those 
asked  at  the  First,  Second  and  Third  year's  Examinations. 
825  pages,  437  illustrations  and  3  folding  plates.  $2.50 

13 


NEW  YORK  AIK-BTIAKE  CATECHISM.  By  ROBERT 
H.  BLACKBALL.  This  is  a  complete  treatise  on  the  New  York 
Air-Brake  and  Air-Signalling  Apparatus,  giving  a  detailed  de- 
scription of  all  the  parts,  their  operation,  troubles,  and  the 
methods  of  locating  and  remedying  the  same.  200  pages,  fully 
illustrated.  $1.00 

POCKET-RAILROAD  DICTIONARY  AND  VADE  ME- 
CUM.  By  FRED  H.  COLVIN,  Associate  Editor  "American 
Machinist."  Different  from  any  book  you  ever  saw.  Gives  clear 
and  concise  information  on  just  the  points  you  are  interested  in. 
It's  really  a  pocket  dictionary,  fully  illustrated,  and  so  arranged 
that  you  can  find  just  what  you  want  in  a  second  without  an 
index.  Whether  you  are  interested  in  Axles  or  Acetylene;  Com- 
pounds or  Counter  Balancing;  Rails  or  Reducing  Valves;  Tires 
or  Turntables,  you'll  find  them  in  this  little  book.  It's  very 
complete.  Flexible  cloth  cover,  200  pages.  $1.OO 

TRAIN  RULES  AND  DESPATCHING.  By  H.  A.  DALBY. 
Contains  the  standard  code  for  both  single  and  double  track  and 
explains  how  trains  are  handled  under  all  conditions.  Gives  all 
signals  in  colors,  is  illustrated  wherever  necessary,  and  the 
most  complete  book  in  print  on  this  important  subject.  Bound 
in  fine  seal  flexible  leather.  221  pages.  $1.50 

WALSCHAERT     LOCOMOTIVE     VALVE     GEAR.     By 

WM.  W.  WOOD.  If  you  would  thoroughly  understand  the 
Walschaert  Valve  Gear,  you  should  possess  a  copy  of  this  book. 
The  author  divides  the  subject  into  four  divisions,  as  follows: 
I.  Analysis  of  the  gear.  II.  Designing  and  erecting  of  the  gear. 
III.  Advantages  of  the  gear.  IV.  Questions  and  answers  re- 
lating to  the  Walschaert  Valve  Gear.  This  book  is  specially  valu- 
able to  those  preparing  for  promotion.  Nearly  200  pages.  $1.50 

WESTINGHOUSE  E  T  AIR-BRAKE  INSTRUCTION 
POCKET  BOOK  CATECHISM.  By  WM.  W.  WOOD,  Air-Brake 
Instructor.  A  practical  work  containing  examination  questions 
and  answers  on  the  E  T  Equipment.  Covering  what  the  E  T 
Brake  is.  How  it  should  be  operated.  What  to  do  when  de- 
fective. Not  a  question  can  be  asked  of  the  engineman  up  for 
promotion  on  either  the  No.  5  or  the  No.  6  E  T  equipment  that 
is  not  asked  and  answered  in  the  book.  If  you  want  to  thor- 
oughly understand  the  E  T  equipment  get  a  copy  of  this  book. 
It  covers  every  detail.  Makes  Air-Brake  troubles  and  examina- 
tions easy.  Fully  illustrated  with  colored  plates,  showing 
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MACHINE   SHOP    PRACTICE 


AMERICAN  TOOL  MAKING  AND  INTERCHANGE- 
ABLE MANUFACTI'RING.  B}  J.  V.  \Voon\voRTH.  A 
practical  treatise  on  the  dc-si^ning,  constructing,  use,  and  in- 
stallation of  tools,  jigs,  fixtures,  appliances, 
sheet-metal  working  processes,  automatic  mechanisms,  and 
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press,  drill,  subi"  >r  the  working  of 
metals,  the  production  of  interchangeable  machine  parts,  and 
the  manufacture  of  repetition  articles  of  metal.  560  pages, 
600  illustrations.  $4.00 


HENLEY'S  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  PRACTICAL  EN- 
GINEERING AND  ALLIED  TRADES.  Edited  by  JOSEPH 
G.  HORNER.  A.M.I.Mech.I.  This  work  covers  the  entire  prac- 
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perts in  all  branches  of  engineering  have  contributed  to  these 
volumes.  The  Cyclopedia  is  admirably  well  adapted  to  the  needs 
of  the  beginner  and  the  self-taught  practical  man,  as  well  as  the 
mechanical  engineer,  designer,  draftsman,  shop  superintendent, 
foreman  and  machinist. 

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plete set  of  five  volumes.  $6.00  per  volume,  when  ordered  singly. 

MACHINE  SHOP  ARITHMETIC.  By  COLVIN-CHENEY. 
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edition.  131  pages.  60  cents 

MECHANICAL  MOVEMENTS,  POWERS,  AND  DE- 
VICES. By  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox.  This  is  a  collection  of  1890 
engravings  of  different  mechanical  motions  and  appliances,  ac- 
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heads:  Mechanical  Powers,  Transmission  of  Power,  Measurement 
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Miscellaneous  Devices,  etc.  nth  edition.  400  octavo  pages. 

$2.50 

MECHANICAL  APPLIANCES,  MECHANICAL  MOVE- 
MENTS AND  NOVELTIES  OF  CONSTRUCTION.  By 

GARDNER  D.  Hiscox.  This  is  a  supplementary  volume  to  the 
one  upon  mechanical  movements.  Unlike  the  first  volume, 
which  is  more  elementary  in  character,  this  volume  contains 
illustrations  and  descriptions  of  many  combinations  of  motions 
and  of  mechanical  devices  and  appliances  found_in  different  lines 
of  Machinery.  Each  device  being  shown  by  a  line  drawing  with 
;L  description  showing  its  working  parts  and  the  method  of  opera- 
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MODERN  MACHINE  SHOP  CONSTRUCTION,  EQUIP- 
MENT AND  MANAGEMENT.  By  OSCAR  E.  PERRIGO. 
The  only  work  published  that  describes  the  Modern  Machine 
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on  the  site  intended  for  it  until  the  finished  product  is  shipped. 
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theories  and  want  facts.  It  is  the  most  complete  all-around  book 
of  its  kind  ever  published.  400  1arge  quarto  pages,  225  original 
and  specially-made  illustrations.  $5.00 

MODERN  MACHINE  SHOP  TOOLS;  THEIR  CON- 
STRUCTION, OPERATION,  AND  MANIPULATION.  By 

W.  H.  VANDERVOORT.  A  work  of  555  pages  and  673  illustra- 
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THE  MODERN  MACHINIST.  By  JOHN  T.  USHER.  This 
book  might  be  called  a  compendium  of  shop  methods,  showing  a 
variety  of  special  tools  and  appliances  which  will  give  new  ideas 
to  many  mechanics  from  the  superintendent  down  to  the  man 
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job  is  to  be  done,  whether  it  is  boring,  milling,  turning,  or  plan- 
ing, as  they  are  all  treated  in  a  practical  manner.  Fifth  edition. 
320  pages,  250  illustrations.  $2.50 

MODERN  MECHANISM.  Edited  by  PARK  BENJAMIN.  A 
practical  treatise  on  machines,  motors  and  the  transmissi®n  of 
power,  being  a  complete  work  and  a  supplementary  volume  to 
Appleton's  Cyclopedia  of  Applied  Mechanics.  Deals  solely  with 
the  principal  and  most  useful  advances  of  the  past  few  years. 
959  pages  containing  over  1,000  illustrations;  bound  in  half 
morocco.  $1.00 

MODERN  MILLING  MACHINES:  THEIR  DESIGN, 
CONSTRUCTION  AND  OPERATION.  By 

HOKXER.     This  book  describes  and  illustrates  the  Millir 
chine  and  its  work  in  such  a  plain,  clear,  and  forceful  mannc  r, 
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It  describes  not  only  the  early  murhines  of  this  class,  but  notes 
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400  pages.    Fourth  edition, 


TOOLS    FOR  MACHINISTS   AND    WOOD  WORKERS, 
INCLUDING  INSTRUMENTS  OF  MEASUREMENT.      By 

JOSEPH  G.  HORNER.  A  practical  treatise  of  340  pages,  fully 
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MANUAL  TRAINING 


ECONOMICS  OF  MANUAL  TRAINING.  By  T  GUIS 
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MARINE   ENGINEERING 


MARINE  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS,  THEIR  DESIGN 
AND  CONSTRUCTION.  By  DR.  G.  BAUER,  LESLIE  S. 
ROBERTSON,  and  S.  BRYAN  DONKIN.  This  work  is  clearly 
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MINING 


*ORE  DEPOSITS  OF  SOUTH  AFRICA  WITH  A 
CHAPTER  ON  HINTS  TO  PROSPECTORS.  By  J.  P.  JOHN- 
SON. This  book  gives  a  condensed  account  of  the  ore-deposits 
at  present  known  in  South  Africa.  It  is  also  intended  as  a  guide 
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PRACTICAL  COAL  MINING.  By  T.  H.  COCKIN.  An  im- 
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PHYSICS  AND  CHEMISTRY  OF  MINING.      By  T.  H. 

BYROM.  A  practical  work  for  the  use  of  all  preparing  for  ex- 
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pages.  Illustrated.  $2.00 

MISCELLANEOUS 


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EMINENT  ENGINEERS.  By  D WIGHT  GODDARD.  Every- 
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LAWS  OF  BUSINESS,  By  THEOPHILUS  PARSONS,  LL.D. 
The  Best  Book  for  Business  Men  ever  Published.  Treats  clearly 
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PATTERN    MAKING 


PRACTICAL  PATTERN  MAKING.  By  F.  W.  BARROWS. 
This  is  a  very  complete  and  entirely  practical  treatise  on  the 
subject  of  oattern  making,  illustrating  pattern  work  in  wo< 
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Lathe.      Individxial   patterns  of  many  different  kinds  are  fully 
illustrated  and  d<  i  the  mounting  of  metal  patterns  on 

plates  for  molding  machines  is  included.  $3.00 

PERFUMERY 


HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  BOOK  OF  RE- 
CEIPTS, FORMULAS  AND  PROCESSES.  Edited  by  G.  U. 
Uiscox.  The  most  valuable  Techno-Chemical  Receipt  Book 
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tf 


PERFUMES  AND  THEIR  PREPARATION.     By  G.  W. 

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edition.  312  pages.  Illustrated.  $3.00 


PLUMBING 


MODERN   PLUMBING    ILLUSTRATED.       By     R.     M. 

STARBUCK.  The  author  of  this  book,  Mr.  R.  M.  Starbuck,  is  one 
of  the  leading  authorities  on  plumbing  in  the  United  States.  The 
book  represents  the  highest  standard  of  plumbing  work.  It  has 
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Government,  in  its  sanitary  work  in  Cuba,  Porto  Rico  and  the 
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States  and  Canada. 

It  gives  Connections,  Sizes  and  Working  Data  for  All  Fixtures 
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Modern  Plumbing  Practice.  Suggestions  for  Estimating  Plumb- 
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sents, in  a  word,  the  latest  and  best  up-to-date  practice,  and 
should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  architect,  sanitary  engineer 

(~nd  plumber  who  wishes  to  keep  himself  up  to  the  minute  on  this 
nportant  feature  of  construction.  400  octavo  pages,  fully 
lustrated  by  55  full-page  engravings.  $4.00 


RUBBER 


HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  BOOK  OF  RE- 
CEIPTS, FORMULAS  AND  PROCESSES.  Edited  by  GARD- 
NER D.  Hiscox.  Contains  upward  of  10,000  practical  receipts, 
including  among  them  formulas  on  artificial  rubber.  See  page 
for  full  description  of  this  book.  $3.00 

RUBBER  HAND  STAMPS  AND  THE  MANIPULATION 
[>F  INDIA  RUBBER.  By  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE.  This  book 
gives  full  details  on  all  points,  treating  in  a  concise  and  simple 
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readily  understood,  the  explanations  being  plain  and  simple. 
f)eeonc|  edition,  144  .pages,  Illustrate^  $1.0(j 

IQ 


SAWS 

SAW    FILING  AND    MANAGEMENT  OF  SAWS.       By 

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SCREW  CUTTING 

THREADS  AND  THREAD  CUTTING.  By  COLVIN  and 
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SHEET   METAL   WORK 

DIES,  THEIR  CONSTRUCTION  AND  USE  FOR  THE 
MODERN  WORKING  OF  SHEET  METALS.  By  J.  V. 

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wish  to  know  the  latest  practice  in  the  working  of  sheet  metals. 
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ING IN  PRESSES.  By  J.  V.  WOODWORTH.  A  work  of  500 
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STEAM   ENGINEERING 

AMERICAN  STATIONARY  ENGINEERING.      By  W. 

E.  CRANE.  A  new  book  by  a  well-known  author.  Begins  at 
the  boiler  room  and  takes  in  the  whole  power  plant.  Contains 
the  result  of  years  of  practical  experience  in  all  sorts  of  engine 
rooms  and  gives  exact  information  that  cannot  be  found  else- 
where. It's  plain  enough  for  practical  men  and  yet  of  value  to 
those  high  in  the  profession.  Has  a  complete  examination  for  a 
license.  S3. 00 

"  BOILER  ROOM  CHART.  By  GEO.  L.  FOWLER.  A  Chart 
— size  14  x  28  inches — showing  in  isometric  perspective  the 
mechanisms  belonging  in  a  modern  boiler  room.  Water  tube 
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heaters  and  pumps  comprise  the  equipment.  The  various  parts 
are  shown  broken  or  removed,  so  that  the  internal  construetion 
is  fully  illustrated.  Each  part  is  given  a  reference  number,  and 
these,  with  the  corresponding  name,  are  given  in  a  glossary 
printed  at  the  sides.  This  chart  is  really  a  dictionary  of  the 
boiler  room — the  names  of  more  than  200  parts  being  given. 
It  is  educational — worth  many  times  its  i  '  *'•>  i:eiit«» 


ENGINE  RUNNER'S  CATECHISM.  By  RpBERT  GRIM- 
SHAW.  Tells  how  to  erect,  adjust,  and  run  the  principal  steam 
engines  in  use  in  the  United  States.  The  work  is  of  a  handy 
size  for  the  pocket.  To  young  engineers  this  catechism  will  be 
of  great  value,  especially  to  those  who  may  be  preparing  to  go 
forward  to  be  examined  for  certificates  of  competency;  and 
to  engineers  generally  it  will  be  of  no  little  service  as  they  will 
find  in  this  volume  more  really  practical  and  useful  information 
than  is  to  be  found  anywhere  else  within  a  like  compass.  387 
pages.  Sixth  edition.  82. OO 

ENGINE    TESTS  AND    BOILER  EFFICIENCIES.     By 

J.  BUCHETTI.  This  work  fully  describes  and  illustrates  the 
method  of  testing  the  power  of  steam  engines,  turbine  and 
explosive  motors.  The  properties  of  steam  and  the  evapora- 
tive power  of  fuels.  Combustion  of  fuel  and  chimney  draft; 
with  formulas  explained  or  practically  computed.  255  pages, 
179  illustrations.  83.00 

HORSE  POWER  CHART.  Shows  the  horse  power  of  any 
stationary  engine  without  calculation.  No  matter  what  the 
cylinder  diameter  or  stroke;  the  steam  pressure  or  cut-off;  the 
revolutions,  or  whether  condensing  or  non-condensing,  it's  all 
there.  Easy  to  use,  accurate,  and  saves  time  and  calculations. 
Especially  useful  to  engineers  and  designers.  50  cents 

MODERN  STEAM  ENGINEERING  IN  THEORY  AND 
PRACTICE.  By  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox.  This  is  a  complete  and 
practical  work  issued  for  Stationary  Engineers  and  Firemen 
dealing  with  the  care  and  management  of  Boilers,  Engines, 
Pumps,  Superheated  Steam,  Refrigerating  Machinery,  Dyna- 
mos, Motors,  Elevators,  Air  Compressors,  and  all  other  branches 
with  which  the  modern  Engineer  must  be  familiar.  Nearly 
200  Questions  with  their  Answers  on  Steam  and  Electrical 
Engineering,  likely  to  be  asked  by  the  Examining  Board,  are 
included.  487  pages,  405  engravings.  $3.00 

STEAM  ENGINE  CATECHISM.  By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 
This  volume  of  413  pages  is  not  only  a  catechism  on  the  question 
and  answer  principle;  but  it  contains  formulas  and  worked-out 
answers  for  all  the  Steam  problems  that  appertain  to  the  opera- 
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are  given.  34  tables  that  are  indispensable  to  every  engineer  and 
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STEAM  ENGINEER'S  ARITHMETIC.  By  COLVIN- 
CHENEY.  A  practical  pocket  book  for  the  Steam  Engineer. 
Shows  how  to  work  the  problems  of  the  engine  room  and  shows 
"why."  Tells  how  to  figure  horse-power  of  engines  and  boilers; 
area  of  boilers;  has  tables  of  areas  and  circumferences;  steam 
tables;  has  a  dictionary  of  engineering  terms.  Puts  you  onto 
all  of  the  little  kinks  in  figuring  whatever  there  is  to  figure 
around  a  power  plant.  Tells  you  about  the  heat  unit;  absolute 
zero;  adiabatic  expansion;  duty  of  engines;  factor  of  safety; 
and  i.ooi  other  things;  and  everything  is  plain  and  simple 
not  the  hardest  way  to  figure,  but  the  easiest 


STEAM  HEATING  AND  VENTILATION 

PRACTICAL  STEAM,  HOT-WATER  HEATING  AND 
VENTILATION.  By  A.  G.  KING.  This  book  is  the  standard 
and  latest  work  published  on  the  subject  and  has  been  prepared 
for  the  use  of  all  engaged  in  the  business  of  steam,  hot-water 
heating  and  ventilation.  It  is  an  original  and  exhaustive  work. 
Tells  how  to  get  heating  contracts,  how  to  install  heating  and 
ventilating  apparatus,  the  best  business  methods  to  be  used,  with 
"Tricks  of  the  Trade"  for  shop  use.  Rules  and  data  for  esti- 
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make  it  an  indispensable  work  for  everyone  interested  in  steam, 
hot-water  heating  and  ventilation.  It  describes  all  the  principal 
systems  of  steam,  hot-water,  vacuum,  vapor  and  vacuum- 
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^lot-water  circulation,  including  chapters  on  up-to-date  methods 
of  ventilation  and  the  fan  or  blower  system  of  heating  and  venti- 
lation. 

You  should  secure  a  copy  of  this  book,  as  each  chapter  con- 
tains a  mine  of  practical  information.  367  pages,  300  detailed 
engravings.  $3.00 

STEAM  PIPES 


STEAM  PIPES:  THEIR  DESIGN  AND  CONSTRUC- 
TION. By  WM.  H.  BOOTH.  The  work  is  well  illustrated  in  regard 
to  pipe  joints,  expansion  offsets,  flexible  joints,  and  self-contained 
sliding  joints  for  taking  up  the  expansion  of  long  pipes.  In  fact, 
the  chapters  on  the  flow  of  Steam  and  expansion  of  pipes  are  most 
valuable  to  all  steam  fitters  and  users.  The  pressure  strength  of 
pipes  and  method  of  hanging  them  is  well  treated  and  illustrated. 
Valves  and  by-passes  are  fully  illustrated  and  described,  as  are 
also  flange  joints  and  their  proper  proportions.  Exhaust  heads 
and  separators.  One  of  the  most  valuable  chapters  is  that  on 
superheated  steam  and  the  saving  of  steam  by  insulation  with 
the  various  kinds  of  felting  and  other  materials,  with  comparison 
tables  of  the  loss  of  heat  in  thermal  units  from  naked  and  felted 
steam  pipes.  Contains  187  pages.  $2.00 

STEEL 


AMERICAN  STEEL  WORKER.  By  E.  R.  MARKHAM. 
The  standard  work  on  hardening,  tempering  and  annealing  steel 
of  all  kinds.  A  practical  book  for  the  machinist,  tool  maker  or 
superintendent.  Shows  just  how  to  secure  best  results  in  any 
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harden;  how  to  handle  high-speed  steel  and  how  to  temper  for  all 
classes  of  work.  $2.50 

HARDENING,  TEMPERING,  ANNEALING,  AND 
FORGING  OF  STEEL.  By  J.  V.  WoomvoKTii.  A  new 

containing  special  directions  for  the  successful  hardening  and 
ring  of  all  steel  tools.  Milling  ctxtters,  taps,  thread  dies, 
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as  for  all  implements  of  steel  both  large  and  small,  the  simplest, 
and  most  satisfactory  hardening  and  tempering  processes  are 
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adapt.  isely  presented,  and  their  treatment  for  work- 

ing under  different  conditions  explained,  as  are  also  the  special 
methods  for  the  hardening  and  tempering  of  special  bra-nd*. 

320  pages,  250  illustrations,  I3«00 


HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  BOOK  OF  RE- 
CEIPTS, FORMULAS  AND  PROCESSES.  Edited  by  GARD- 
NER D.  Hiscox.  The  most  valuable  techno-chemical  Receipt 
book  published,  giving,  among  other  practical  receipts,  methods 
of  annealing,  coloring,  tempering,  welding,  plating,  polishing 
and  cleaning  steel.  See  page  24  for  full  description  of  this  book. 

83.00 


WATCH   MAKING 


HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  BOOK  OF  RE- 
CEIPTS, FORMULAS  AND  PROCESSES.  Edited  by 
GARDNER  D.  Hiscox.  Contains  upwards  of  10,000  practical 
formulas  including  many  watchmakers'  formulas.  $3.00 

WATCH-MAKER'S  HANDBOOK.  By  CLAUDIUS  SAUNIER. 
No  work  issued  can  compare  with  this  book  for  clearness  and 
completeness.  It  contains  498  pages  and  is  intended  as  a  work- 
shop companion  for  those  engaged  in  Watchmaking  and  allied 
Mechanical  Arts.  Nearly  250  engravings  and  fourteen  plates 
are  included.  $3.00 


WIRELESS  TELEPHONES 


WIRELESS  TELEPHONES   AND   HOW  THEY  WORK. 

By  JAMES  ERSKINE-MURRAY.  This  work  is  free  from  elaborate 
details  and  aims  at  giving  a  clear  survey  of  the  way  in  which 
Wireless  Telephones  work.  It  is  intended  for  amateur  workers 
and  for  those  whose  knowledge  of  Electricity  is  slight.  Chap- 
ters contained:  How  We  Hear — Historical — The  Conversion  of 
Sound  into  Electric  Waves — Wireless  Transmission — The  Pro- 
duction of  Alternating  Currents  of  High  Frequency — How  the 
Electric  Waves  are  Radiated  and  Received — The  Receiving 
Instruments — Detectors — Achievements  and  Expectations — 
Glossary  of  Technical  Words.  Cloth.  81.00 


Henley's  Twentieth  Century 

Book  of 

Recipes,  Formulas 
and  Processes 

Edited  by  GARDNER  D.  HISCOX,  M.E. 
Price  $3.00  Cloth  Binding  $4.00  Half  Morocco  Binding 

Contains  over  10,000  Selected  Scientific,  Chemical, 

Technological  and  Practical  Recipes  and 

Processes,  including  Hundreds  of 

So-Called  Trade  Secrets 

for  Every  Business 

THIS  book  of  800  pages  is  the  most  complete  Book  of 
Recipes  ever  published,  giving  thousands  of  recipes 
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number  of  formulas  that  every  one  ought  to  have  that  are 
not  found  in  any  other  work. 


SIXTH  EDITION  JUST   PUBLISHED 

MACHINE  SHOP  ARITHMETIC 

By  COLVIN-  CHENEY 
145  Pages  Price,  50c.          Bound  in  Cloth 

THIS  is  an  arithmetic  of  the  things  you  have  to  do 
with  daily.  It  tells  you  plainly  about :  how  to 
find  areas  of  figures  — how  to  find  surface  or 
volume  of  balls  or  spheres — handy  ways  for  calcula- 
ting—  about  compound  gearing—  cutting  screw  threads 
on  any  lathe  —  drilling  for  taps  —  speeds  of  drills, 
taps,  emery  wheels,  grindstones,  milling  cutters,  etc. 
—  all  about  the  Metric  system  with  conversion  tables— ^ 
properties  of  metals  —  strength  of  bolts  and  nuts-- 
decimal  equivalent  of  an  inch.  All  sorts  of  machine 
shop  figuring  and  1001  other  things,  any  one  of  which 
ought  to  be  worth  more  than  the  price  of  this  book  to 
»u,  as  it  saves  you  the  trouble  of  bothering  the 
is. 


This  is  one  of  the  most  popular  Mechanical  books 
in  print.  It  contains  the  greatest  half  a  dollar's  worth  of 
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Treats  on  everything  relating  to  Machine  Shop  figuring. 


JUST     PUBLISHED 

GASOLINE~ENGINES 

Their  Operation,  Use  and  Care. 

BY    A.    HYATT   VERRILL. 

The   Simplest,  Latest   and    Most   Comprehensive 
Popular  work  published  on  Gasoline  Engines 

320    PAGES.  150  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PRICE,     $1.50. 


Describing  what  the  Gasoline  Engine  is;  its  con- 
struction and  operation  ;  how  to  install  it  ;  how 
to  select  it ;  how  to  use  it  and  how  to  remedy 
troubles  encountered.  Intended  for  Owners, 
Operator  and  Users  of  Gasoline  Motors  of  all 
kinds. 

This  work  fully  describes  and  illustrates  the 
various  types  of  Gasoline  Engines  used  in  Motor 
Boats,  Motor  Vehicles  and  Stationary  Work. 
The  parts,  accessories  and  appliances  are  de- 
scribed, with  chapters  on  ignition,  fuel,  lubrica- 
tion, operation  and  engine  troubles.  Special 
attention  is  given  to  the  care,  operation  and  re- 
pair of  motors  with  useful  hints  and  suggestions 
on  emergency  repairs  and  make-shifts. 

A  complete  glossary  of  technical  terms  and  an 
alphabetically  arranged  table  of  troubles  and 
their  symptoms  form  most  valuable  and  unique 
features  of  this  manual.  Nearly  every  illustra- 
tion in  the  book  is  original,  having  been  made  by 
the  author.  Every  page  is  full  of  interest  and 
value.  A  book  which  you  cannot  afford  to  be 
without. 

THE  NORMAN  W.  HENLEY  PUBLISHING  CO., 

132  NASSAU  ST.,  NEW  YORK. 


UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA 
BRANCH    OF    THE    COLLEGE    OF    AGRICULTURE 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
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JUN  1 


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